MODERN 



'EACH MINER 



THE 



MODERN PEACH PRUNER, 

TREATING OX THE 

LONG AND CLOSE SYSTEMS OF 

PRUNING THE PEACH, 

ADAPTED FOR THE OPEN AIR, AND FOR ALL FORMS 
OE ORCHARD-HOUSE CULTURE. 

WITH NUMEROUS ORIGINAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 

BY THE 

Rev. T. COLLINGS BREHAUT, 

Author of " Cordon Training of Fruit Trees" &c. &c. 
TO WHICH IS ADDED, 

NOTES ON VARIATION FROM SEED, 

By Mr. THOMAS RIYERS. 



LONDON: 

JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE and COTTAGE GARDENER 
OFFICE, 171, FLEET STREET. 




T31 

« 



LONDON : 
Printed at the Horticultural Press, 
171, Fleet Street. 

►at. OulQ* Ute. 



(T 




TO 



THOMAS RIVERS, 

OF SAWBRIDGEWORTH, 

IN TOKEN OF PRIVATE FRIENDSHIP, 
AND OF RESPECT FOR HIS LONG AND USEFUL SERVICES 
IN THE CAUSE OF HORTICULTURE, 

ftiis Wavl 

IS DEDICATED BY 

THOMAS C. BREHAUT. 



Richmond House, 

Guernsey, February 7th, I860, 



CONTENTS. 



1st Part.— INTRODUCTORY. 

PAGE 

No. 1. Introductory Remarks and History 7 

„ 2. Theory of Vegetation 13 

„ 3. Phenomena connected with Growth - - - 18 

„ 4. Soils and Manures 24 

„ 5. Aspects and Shelters 31 

„ 6. Transplanting 38 

„ 7. Useful Maxims 44 

2nd Part.— LONG PRUNING. 

No. 8. Long Peach Shoots 49 

„ 9. Short Peach Shoots 57 

„ 10. Forms of Trees for Long Pruning - - - 64 

„ 11. Theory of Long Pruning 73 

„ 12. Long Pruning - 79 

3rd Part. -CLOSE PRUNING. 

No. 13. Theory of Close Pruning 89 

„ 14. The Premature Lateral 96 

„ 15. Close Pruning for the Open Air - - - - 105 
„ 16. Close Pruning for the Open Air - - - - 112 
„ 17. Close Pruning by Alternate Shoots - - - 118 

4th Part.— ORCHARD-HOUSE. 
No. 18. Orchard-house Pruning and Training - - 128 
„ 19. Orchard-house Pruning and Training - - 136 
j, 20. Orchard-house Pruning and Training - - 145 
„ 21. "Variations from Seed 158 

APPENDIX. 

No. 1. Diseases and Insects 167 

„ 2. List of Choice Peaches and Nectarines for 

Open Wall - 171 

„ 3. Ditto for Orchard-houses 174 



THE] 



MODERN PEACH PRUNEK, 



No. 1. — Introductory Remarks, and History 
of the Peach. 

It is probable that more books have been written 
on the subject of the Peach than on that of any 
other fruit. But this is by no means surprising 
when we consider the large sums expended on its 
culture, its beauty, and ever-increasing popularity. 

The demand for information has in consequence 
proportionally augmented, especially since the 
introduction of orchard-houses. These structures 
have created a special class of growers ; varieties, 
some of semi-tropical parentage, are now fruited, 
which before were entirely unknown to us, and 
which require a certain skill to bring to perfection. 
We are no longer satisfied with a short season for 
the enjoyment of this noble fruit, but require a 
succession which shall last through the summer 



8 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



and autumn, besides the spring Peaches obtained 
by forcing. 

This is certainly a considerable advance upon 
former years, and in consequence much of the old- 
established styles of management are unsuited to 
the wants of the present day. More especially 
the system of long pruning of the shoots, with 
its tedious dis-budding, and considerable winter 
shortening-in of the leading branches, has been 
found inadequate to represent new ideas, and 
modern experience. Many of the works of the 
older writers have inherent defects which vitiate 
the otherwise sound principles laid down in them. 
They too often pre-suppose a greater amount of 
knowledge in the general reader (such a class as 
is now much more common) than is usually found 
to be the case. Hence the rules given are too 
vague to be of practical use : there is a want of 
detail, and of classification. For example, although 
the best continental authorities approve of naming 
and classifying the Peach shoots (for convenience 
of reference), this is first attempted in the present 
work in this country, and is done with the sanction 
of those best qualified to judge. 

Great confusion was sure to follow from having 
two systems — one for the orchard-house, and 
another for the open air. It is now proposed to 
avoid this by means of one general method of 



INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 



9 



pruning, which, with simple and obvious modifica- 
tions, should serve for every purpose. 

Throughout a much closer style of pruning of 
the shoots, and little or no shortening-in of the 
branches has been recommended, which is only a 
recurrence to first principles. 

The frontispiece, showing the appearance of the 
shoots in the autumn, after having been closely 
summer-stopped, is an example of the new style. 
This is pruning on the " alternate system." 

The original system of close pruning, begun 
thirty years ago at Chartres, by Mons. Grin, is 
described, being the only authentic account in this 
country. But the exigencies of an English climate 
required a larger style of treatment, so as to supply 
vacancies, and blank spaces caused by accidents, 
&c, and all this is secured by the alternate system. 
This is adapted either for trees on the open wall, 
or for diagonal cordons on the back walls of 
orchard-houses. Nor does the pruning of trees 
in pots essentially differ. In this consists the 
general system proposed. 



The Peach (Persica vulgaris) has been arranged 
in two grand divisions of freestones and cling- 
stones, and then in three sub-divisions, as follows : — 

The first has leaves serrated and glandless. 



10 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



The second has leaves crenated or serrulated, with 
reniform or kidney-shaped glands. The third has 
leaves crenated or serrulated, with globose glands. 
Flowers are described as large, medium-sized, or 
small. 



In its native country, Persia, the Peach, as a 
standard, attains to a very moderate height only. 
It is cultivated as a standard in Asia Minor, China, 
America, and the south of Europe. In tropical 
climates the Pavie (clingstone) Peaches attain to 
large sizes. Opinions differ as to their merit, 
many connoisseurs preferring these hard fleshed 
fruits. Matured by the fierce summer sun of 
America, this class of Peach, with a yellow flesh, 
and having an Apricot flavour, is much admired, 
and certainly excellent. The difficulty is to obtain 
like results in England. This is impossible without 
skill and some artificial means. 

A Peach (not, however, a clingstone, but of this 
style), the Early Crawford, is well known in the 
Northern States, and is also one of the most 
successfully grown in our orchard-houses. Others 
have been introduced of late also promising good 
results. Golden Rathripe, Exquisite, Canary, 
Bergen's Yellow, and Susquehanna, are all excel- 
lent yellow-fleshed American Peaches. MitchelPs 
Mammoth (a clingstone Peach), as also Thomas's 



HISTORY OF THE PEACH. 



11 



Late November and Baldwin's Late (also cling- 
stones), are handsome and valuable acquisitions. 
The last, being a November Peach, shows how 
the season is now extended. From the beginning 
of July to the beginning of November is the range 
obtainable, and this not with one sort only, but 
with a certain number, each widely differing in 
appearance and flavour. 

Among European yellow Peaches the Admirable 
Jaune is decidedly the best, and is grown to per- 
fection in orchard-houses here. Few Peaches are 
so remarkable in form as the Honey Peach from 
China. It has quite the appearance of an almond. 
Many, however, of our finest old varieties are still 
high in favour, as a glance at any fruit catalogue 
shows. But no one can venture to predict what 
sorts may be valuable in the future. In fact, 
Peach culture is in a state of transition ; and an 
interesting paper, written by Mr. Thomas Rivers 
expressly to illustrate this fact, and styled " Varia- 
tions from Seed," will be found at the end of this 
work. As orchard-houses generally advance the 
period of ripening annually, and as new seedlings 
are raised remarkable for earliness, we may reason- 
ably expect to have good-sized Peaches ripe in 
June, or even in May, in due time, without forcing. 

Of the history of the Peach little is really 
reliable. Probably about the reign of Claudius 



12 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



the Romans introduced this fruit into Europe. 
Columella describes it under its name, Persica, 
as a species of laurel (Persea), and ascribes 
poisonous qualities to it. But Pliny the elder, 
who died a.d. 79, refutes this error, and distinctly 
states that in his day there were already five sorts 
existing. The oldest variety of which we can 
most clearly trace back the history is, according 
to Noisette, the Late Admirable, supposed to be 
identical with the " Lucca Peach.' ' 

It would seem, however, that the Chinese were 
acquainted with Peaches and Nectarines from 
very early dates. This is evident from the writings 
of their ancient poets and others. In all of them 
it is easy to trace the recognition of the tradition 
of the " tree of life and death," and of the fatal 
consequences of eating of the forbidden fruit — 
according to these, the Peach. Confucius was 
born about 550 years B.C., and was well acquainted 
with the Mosaical writings. The religious opinions 
of the Chinese are extremely obscure, so that the 
distinctness of the tradition is somewhat remark- 
able. Not that all Peaches had an evil quality, 
for almond-shaped fruits (of which the Honey 
Peach is a good example) are symbolical of a long 
and healthy life, especially if highly coloured. 
But, on the other hand, round and dark brown 
Peaches (like Galande) are symbols of death. 



THEORY OF VEGETATION. 



Figures and paintings of this fruit ornament the 
walls and furniture of the Chinese. They are 
presented to parents and superiors, and when out 
of season imitations in porcelain are used. 

In 1573 Tusser speaks only of red and white 
varieties. In 1629 Parkinson enumerates twenty- 
one sorts, and Miller thirty-one in 1750. In 1806 
the number had reached to sixty-seven, of forty of 
which Forsyth gives particulars. In the present 
day the list is much larger, as is well known. 

No. 2. — Theory of Vegetation. 

Without having the pretension to enter very 
largely into the difficult subject of vegetable phy- 
siology, and wishing at the same time not to 
exceed the limits originally proposed for my notes, 
it will, nevertheless, be proper to devote two or 
three chapters to an examination of the principles 
which regulate vegetation. 

In this case theory must necessarily precede and 
govern practice ; nor is it prudent for the horti- 
culturist at any time to separate them. 

It is not always at first setting out that the 
amateur, eager as he may be for information, is in 
a position to profit by the numerous works on the 
principles of vegetation. From many causes he 
generally reverses the natural order of things, and 



14 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

begins by experiments based on the teaching of 
unlearned and often deeply prejudiced men. The 
consequence is, that after a series of years passed 
in alternate success and failure, he finds himself 
compelled to return to first principles, and to 
make an attempt, often futile, to unlearn nearly 
all he formerly knew ; and this often occurs when 
his practical manipulation had attained a pitch 
which, had it been regulated by a sound acquaint- 
ance with the laws of vegetation, would have 
placed him in the highest rank. It is obvious, 
then, that a treatise on Peach pruning, such as 
this one, must commence at the beginning. It 
shall be the especial object of the writer to make 
this portion of the subject as brief and as simple in 
detail as possible, while nothing that is important 
to the amateur will be omitted. 

Commencing by an analysis of the organs of 
plants, we find that, in general, what are de- 
signated as the elementary organs, or the primi- 
tive formations of matter, are known as cellular 
and vascular tissues. The cellular tissue appears 
first, and is composed of small cells, while vascular 
tissue is composed of tubes, pierced with lateral 
openings, and enclosing the original cellular tissue 
between them. Cellular tissue forms the softer 
portions of plants, and vascular the harder por- 
tions. 



THEORY OF VEGETATION. 



15 



Roots are composed of the neck or collar, of 
the taproot from which the roots ramify, and of 
fibrous rootlets, at the extremities of which are 
the spongioles, which from the soil absorb the 
nourishment of the tree. The spongioles, as seen 
under a microscope, are composed of cellular 
tissue, and are of the greatest importance to the 
life of the tree. 

The trunk of the tree is composed of the pith, 
the ligneous body, and the bark. The pith is 
formed of cellular tissue, bound together by the 
tubes of the vascular tissue. In this position these 
tubes act as vessels of the medullary canal. From 
the natural deviation of these vessels arise the 
leaves and the buds, and after these the green or 
growing shoot. The ligneous body lies between 
the pith and the bark. If we cut through the 
trunk transversely, the ligneous body is seen in 
the form of concentric layers, each the growth of 
one year. Permeating these layers are the medul- 
lary rays which connect the medullary canal with 
the circumference. If, however, the trunk be cut 
through vertically, the ligneous fibres of the layers 
are seen to be formed by the union of vessels 
derived from the base of the leaves, and reaching 
downwards to the spongioles. The ligneous fibres, 
produced by the upper leaves, lie over those 
produced by the lower leaves. Thus the ex- 



16 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



terior layers are the latest deposited, and the 
youngest. 

The ligneous body itself is composed of hard 
wood or heart, and of alburnum or soft wood. 
The Jieart, formed of the innermost layers, is 
composed of tissue, which material deposits have 
completely filled up. The alburnum, or recently- 
formed ligneous substance, is situated between the 
heart and the bark of the tree. The outer layers 
contain the sap -vessels, which perform their im- 
portant functions in proportion to their formation. 

The bark comprehends the liber, and the cor- 
tical layers. The liber is the interior portion of 
the bark, and covers the alburnum. The liber is 
the seat of vitality in the tree. It is composed, 
therefore, of a certain number of thin layers of 
vessels, having their origin at the base of a leaf, 
and their extremity at the spongioles. While, 
however, in the ligneous body, the exterior layers 
are the latest produced, in the liber, on the con- 
trary, the newest are the innermost ones. The 
cortical layers are those formed by the oldest ones 
of the liber. In young subjects the liber is covered 
with thin tissues, called respectively inner and outer 
epidermis. 

The bud, situated at the axil of the leaves, is the 
rudiment of the young shoot. It is formed by a 
deviation of the vessels of the medullary canal. 



THEORY OF VEGETATION. 



17 



Leaves are composed of footstalks, and the blade 
or body of the leaf. The footstalk of the leaf is 
formed by the vessels of the medullary canal. 
These vessels ramify in the tissue, and form the 
channels of the sap. The body of the leaf is 
formed of cellular tissue covered with a thin skin 
or epidermis, which is pierced with innumerable 
apertures called stomata. In fact, these stomata 
or mouths are to be found on all growing portions 
of vegetables, not only on the leaves, as before 
stated, but also on the shoots themselves, and on 
the fruit. Their functions are very important in 
vegetable life, as will be explained presently. 

Flowers are composed of floral envelopes and 
of sexual organs. The floral envelopes are the 
calyx and the corolla. The divisions of the calyx 
are known as sepals, and those of the corolla as 
petals. The sexual organs are the stamens and 
the pistil. The stamens are the male organs of 
plants. The anther, at the extremity of the stamen, 
contains the pollen or fertilising dust. The pistil 
is the female organ of plants, the extremity of 
w T hich is called the stigma, and the base the ovary, 
while the intermediate space is called the style. 

The fruit is composed of the pericarp, a fleshy 
substance which is formed of cellular tissue, and 
of the seeds. The seed contains the rudiment of 
a similar plant. 

B 



18 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



The embryo comprehends the radicle or rudi- 
ment of the root, the plumule or rudiment of the 
stem, and cotyledons, whose office it is to supply 
nourishment to the young plant before the appear- 
ance of the leaves. 

No. 3. — Phenomena connected with Growth. 

The substances necessary for the life of plants are 
absorbed by them from the soil, by means of the 
roots, and from the atmosphere, by means of the 
leaves. De Jussieu calls these last " aerial roots." 
Their functions, in some degree, resemble those of 
the human lungs. They absorb from the air the 
water and carbonic acid which they require. Roots 
draw from the soil mineral and saline materials, 
besides the carbon and nitrogen which artificial 
manures supply. 

The spongioles alone are the absorbing organs 
of the roots ; nutritive substances are introduced 
by them in the form of liquids, which proves 
how indispensable water is to vegetation. Fluid 
nourishment is, therefore, the basis of the growth 
of plants. It is elaborated in the leaves, under 
the influence of the solar rays during the day. 
Under the name of sap it ascends to the leaf- 
stalks, passes into the venous ramifications, and 
from thence into the cellular tissue of the leaf. 



PHENOMENA CONNECTED WITH GROWTH. 19 

A portion is returned to the atmosphere, the rest 
remains to feed the plant. 

The carbonic acid of the air is also absorbed by 
the leaves, unites with the matter drawn by the 
spongioles from the soil, and is decomposed in the 
tissue of the leaves, in order to become nutritious 
matter. 

The sap, elaborated in this manner, takes the 
name of cambium, and, changed in the nature 
which it had during its ascent, it becomes proper 
and suitable for the increase of the plant. The 
sap ascends to the leaves through the outer layers 
of the alburnum, or young wood, during the day. 
It descends during the night to the spongioles by 
the innermost layers (that is, by the newest formed) 
of the liber, composing thus a new layer of lig- 
neous fibre, and a new layer of liber. This is the 
manner of growth in trees. There is, however, 
this difference, that while the ascent of the sap 
increases the length, the descent of the matured 
sap, or cambium, increases the breadth of plants. 

In spring, the sap-vessels are already gorged 
before the leaves show. Thence arises a pressure 
on the axils of the buds, which precipitates the 
young shoot into extension. The cambium de- 
scending, on the other hand, solidifies the young- 
shoot by means of the new layers which it inter- 
poses. The cambium gives breadth as well as 
b 2 



20 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



solidity. We can thus readily comprehend, how a 
shoot which has pushed forth in some portion of a 
tree, deprived of the sun's rays, is unnaturally 
long, and soft in its component parts. The leaves 
of that shoot not having been exposed to the action 
of light, the cambium has not been elaborated in 
the texture. The sap remains much as it was 
during its ascent ; the inner portion of the growing 
shoot is spongy and soft, the cambium being the 
means of hardening it, and the shoot has received 
little or none. On the other hand, a shoot which 
springs from that side of the branch which is fully 
exposed to light is short, and the wood is hard, 
well coloured, and fruitful. 

The descent of the cambium is by the innermost 
layers of the liber, and it forms the ligneous layers 
which cover the medullary canal, and also the 
new vessels of the liber. 

These ligneous and cortical layers, when formed 
from the cambium, elaborated in the upper leaves, 
are placed above those formed by the lower leaves. 
The ligneous layers are, however, composed from 
the centre outwards — i.e., the newest layer is that 
farthest from the centre. But the cortical layers 
are formed from the circumference to the centre — 
i.<?., the newest layer is the innermost. Each year, 
then, a new layer of alburnum covers that formed 
during the preceding year. When the cellular 



PHENOMENA CONNECTED WITH GROWTH. 21 

tissues are filled in they become hard, and of a 
deeper colour. This is the "heart" of the tree, 
but the sap does not pass through these obstructed 
vessels any more. This portion, however, is the 
real support of the tree against violent winds. In 
like manner each year sees new liber grow, while 
the oldest layers, now external, possess no longer 
vitality, and become dry and wrinkled. 

The growth of roots is owing to the descent of 
the cambium, by the addition of new cellular tissue 
to the spongioles. It is evident, then, how muti- 
lation of these is injurious to the welfare of the 
tree, and how a healthy equilibrium between root 
and shoot is a first requisite to its healthy vitality. 
When these spongioles become obstructed they 
cannot absorb the materials of the soil, and thus 
the tree languishes and dies. A portion of the 
cambium in the autumn does not descend to the 
roots, but is reserved by nature to feed the young 
shoots before the leaves expand in spring. In 
shoots, the inner epidermis is formed by the aid 
of this reserved cambium. The first action of the 
spongioles in spring may also be due to its in- 
fluence, in some measure. 

In like manner we may readily understand the 
growth of the fruit. Fruit is composed of cellular 
tissue ; like the leaves, the epidermis is full of 
stomata or mouths. The parenchyma of fruits has 



22 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



its functions as well as that of the leaves. The 
sap ascending from the roots is developed therein, 
the useless portions are evaporated into the atmo- 
sphere, the nutritious substances remain in the cells, 
where they are decomposed by the oxygen to form 
nutriment for the growing fruit. These fruits 
absorb a very large proportion of sap for their own 
use, and do not restore it to the general use of 
the tree as the leaves da. This is how the too 
abundant production of fruit exhausts the vitality 
of the tree, and how the crop of one year affects 
that of the next. 

During the period of growth fruits inhale car- 
bonic acid, and exhale oxygen ; but when quite 
ripe they absorb oxygen, and set free carbonic 
acid. When, then, all this acid is disposed of, and 
replaced by oxygen, the fruit is perfectly ripe, and 
decay is not far off. In all these processes we see 
what an important part water plays, whether in 
the soil as the means of conveying the nutriment 
to the plant, or in the air in the condition of 
vapour. In the soil it dissolves the substances it 
meets there ; in the body of the tree, as sap, it is the 
vehicle of these nutritive substances; and in the air, 
in the state of vapour, it remedies any undue dry- 
ness of the soil. A superabundance of humidity is, 
however, an evil. Trees grow, but produce but 
little fruit when moisture is too abundant. 



PHENOMENA CONNECTED WITH GROWTH. 23 

Not less important than water is air. Without 
it the sap would not be converted into cambium. 
The roots decay when withdrawn from the in- 
fluence of the air. Soil must, therefore, be per- 
meable. 

Without light trees could not feed, nor produce 
fruit. Light accelerates the maturing of the sap, 
by causing an evaporation of the superabundant 
water in the cellular tissue of the leaves. The 
roots are thus stimulated to absorb more liquid 
nourishment. The more light, the more root 
action. A bright light is needed for the leaves to 
decompose the carbonic acid accumulated in their 
tissue. Lis;ht flavours and colours the fruit. 

Heat is also an indispensable agent in vegeta- 
tion. It stimulates the energy of plants, especially 
when combined with moisture. Even during 
periods of great heat, the sap, then much stimu- 
lated, brings into the leaves some of the coolness 
of the soil derived through the roots, thus pre- 
serving the leaves from being injured by the solar 
rays. During the winter, on the contrary, the sap 
circulates very slowly, but still brings with it some- 
thing of the latent earth heat, which is higher 
than that of the atmosphere, and thus counter- 
balance its coldness. 



24 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



No. 4. — Soils and Manures. 

The particular kinds of soil which are adapted for 
Peach-culture must now be considered. A more 
important consideration cannot well occupy the 
attention of the growers of all stone fruit. The 
subject is a large and difficult one, and is far from 
well understood. It is not pretended, therefore, 
to give more than an outline of certain established 
truths, which, it is hoped, will induce cultivators to 
examine more carefully the nature of the soil 
composing their gardens, so as in some measure 
to secure materials now known to be indispensable 
in Peach-culture. 

There are three principal earths which enter, 
more or less largely, into the composition of all 
soils ; these are clay, silex, and lime. Soils are 
made by a complex combination of materials ob- 
tained from these three primitive earths. These 
materials vary considerably in their proportions, 
and so affect the general nature of the soil, which, 
moreover, depends very much on the quality of 
the subsoil. For example : a chalky subsoil gives 
a whitish appearance to the surface soil ; when 
red sandstone constitutes the subsoil the earth above 
it has a reddish hue ; on gravel it has a yellow 
tinge, and on blue clay it appears greyish. 



SOILS AND MANURES. 



25 



Clay is a constituent of all good soils ; in fertile 
ones there may be 15 per cent. ; but in those 
which are barren 40 per cent. Its absence makes 
a soil too dry, while too much of it constitutes a 
soil retentive of moisture, and apt to harden and 
crack with heat. The rays of the sun cannot 
penetrate stiff clays. The red clay soils are the 
hardest, and the black clay the most plastic. The 
purest clay contains at least 60 per cent, of sand, 
and is always mixed with mineral and other sub- 
stances. Clay soils, properly treated, are among 
the very best for stone fruit. The first considera- 
tion is to drain them thoroughly of superabundant 
water, which would otherwise result in soft, spongy 
wood, and moss on the trees. The next thing is 
to incorporate with them all such materials as 
will render them permeable by the air. This 
should be done to the depth of at least 2 feet, 
by means of steel forks, using for this purpose 
such materials as sand, coal ashes, gravel, lime 
from very old buildings (of this a large pro- 
portion), broken pottery, pounded oyster-shells, 
&c. ; in fact, any thing to keep the soil open. 
The general border- drainage of such soils should 
be itself 12 or more inches in depth, according to 
the quality of the clay. Drainage withdraws the 
water from the roots, and allows the air and sun's 
heat to reach them, and supply that warmth 



26 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



which is absolutely required for carrying on their 
functions. 

A main drain, at least 4 feet deep, running 
under the walks, and connected with this border 
at intervals, is requisite, unless in the case of stony 
subsoils. It is hardly known how much drainage, 
well carried out, increases the temperature of the 
borders. Whatever tends to increase the tempe- 
rature of the soil, in naturally cold and damp 
countries, is of the highest importance. Continental 
writers are not so explicit on this point, but possibly 
the amount of evaporation lessens the danger. 
Of late years this subject has gained ground even 
among them. 

Silex, or sand, is found more or less in all soils. 
Sands vary much in colour. Sand more unequally 
reduced forms gravel ; when flinty, it is termed 
silicious ; with mica, micaceous ; when very fine, 
dust. Silica allows w r ater to evaporate from it 
twice as fast as chalk, and three times as fast as 
clay. Sandy soils are early, and wrought easily, 
but are incapable of great production. They are 
" hungry soils," and in them manures soon dis- 
appear : these should, therefore, be applied only 
for the crop of the current year. Silicious soils 
vary in colour from white to red, according to the 
quantity of oxide of iron which they contain. 
They are friable and penetrable to a great extent 



SOILS AND MANURES 



27 



by the air, but liable to dry up. There are, how- 
ever, exceptions to this general rule. In some 
parts of the eastern counties of England there are 
large tracts of land composed of calcareous sand. 
These soils are apt to become binding rather than 
dry on the surface, and as such they are more 
fertile than loosely-constituted silicious soils. Usu- 
ally loose sandy districts are very unfertile when 
planted with fruit trees, especially Peach trees. 
Such soils should be mixed largely with stiff 
alluvial loam, and have rich surface dressings and 
mulchings in times of drought. Soils thus treated 
are much improved, but whilst the Peach grows 
fairly in them, the fruits, though of good flavour, 
are not large. In order to supply carbonate of 
lime freely, powdered lime rubbish and gravel 
mixed (so as to separate the particles), the whole 
spread over the surface, would gradually find its 
way by the infiltration of water all through the 
soil. Thus only could a silicious earth, rendered 
firm by clay with lime added, be called a fair 
Peach soil. Pure silex is extremely barren. 
When, however, it appears of a reddish colour it 
indicates the presence of oxide of iron, which com- 
bines readily with the oxygen of the atmosphere 
and retains it. These ferruginous soils are ex- 
cellent. When silex is in too great a quantity 
there is an abundance of blossom, but the fruits 



28 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

are not so large as in other cases. The leaves of 
the trees are also more liable to curl, and the 
attacks of aphides. 

The third chief earth found in soils is lime. 
The value of lime in the culture of the Peach, the 
Vine, and indeed all fruit trees, has not yet been 
fairly estimated. Lime appears in soils in the 
form of carbonate of lime, or chalk. Without 
the admixture of other substances essentially chalky 
soils are very unfertile. A chalky subsoil is un- 
favourable to fruit culture. Calcareous soils absorb 
moisture, and dry up with equal rapidity. Cal- 
careous matter is, however, of the highest necessity 
in Peach culture. Its absence is at once perceived 
by the falling of the fruit at the period of stoning, 
because carbonate of lime constitutes a considerable 
portion of the stone. Sand and clay are the ap- 
propriate ingredients to mix with chalky soils, so 
as to render them more firm, yet permeable and 
fertile. Clay destroys the whiteness of the chalk, 
which is unfavourable to the due absorption of the 
sun's rays. An incident strongly corroborative of 
what has been advanced respecting the value of 
lime, occurred lately at Sawbridgeworth. The 
soil of that nursery is very largely mixed up with 
comminuted chalk ; the water is therefore im- 
pregnated largely with carbonate of lime, and its 
effects on Peach trees and Vines in pots have this 



SOILS AND MANURES. 



29 



year been remarkable. The trees and Vines were 
copiously watered, and a thick deposit of lime was 
found adhering to the drainage. The roots were 
finely developed, while vigorous and healthy 
growth was visible everywhere. Other experi- 
ments have fully established the value of lime. 

The border for Peach trees should always have 
a good slope. Its width, for walls 10 feet high, 
should be about 5 feet, provided this space is never 
encroached on. A rich calcareous loam, of an 
unctuous texture, soft to the touch, made pervious 
to air and heat, is a favourable soil for the Peach. 
Manures should be gradually forked in, but the 
roots should be so near the surface that forking 3 
inches deep would be dangerous. These Peach- 
borders should not be further disturbed save for 
weeding. Although thus near the surface, roots 
can be readily protected from the effects of evapo- 
ration during the summer by mulchings of litter, 
and, in the same way, from excessive cold. 

Calcareous matter (old lime rubbish, powdered 
oyster-shells, and broken bones), should be added 
to the extent of one-sixth of the soil. Manures 
composed of well-rotted vegetable refuse, inter- 
mixed with stable-droppings, allowed to stand for 
some time before using, and well turned fortnightly, 
with lime and soot intermixed, are excellent. 
Summer mulching should not be applied till the 



30 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

earth has been well warmed by the sun. Charred 
earth soaked in manure water is highly stimulating, 
but should be carefully used. 

Although the list of manures is long, many 
Peach -growers are of opinion that such as are of 
slow decomposition ( as old woollen materials) are 
the best ; at any rate, vegetable manures are of 
much value, and are too often neglected. These, 
well applied, should not be buried too deep, other- 
wise fermentation is hindered. Wood ashes offer 
much that is valuable. The ashes of all vegetable 
substances contain lime, phosphoric acid, and alka- 
line salts. There is usually a little charcoal or 
carbon left which is most valuable. These ashes 
should be applied when newly burned. The effects 
of manures, however, much depend on the quality 
of the soil to which they are applied, and on its 
state at the time of application. Manures should 
be thoroughly incorporated with the soil. 

In the case of orchard-houses a well-drained 
locality is absolutely indispensable. Many failures 
occur from neglecting to examine into the nature 
of the subsoil on which the building is to stand. 
Mr. Rivers has so often insisted on this point that 
it is surprising it is not better understood. Any 
situation almost is preferable to a cold ill-drained 
one. It must be evident that no Peach-blossoms 
can set in such houses, shut up as they may also 



ASPECTS AND SHELTERS. 



31 



happen to be at that season. The manures re- 
quired for orchard-house trees are naturally of 
rather a more stimulating character than for trees 
in the open air. Thus, rich surface-dressings often 
renewed are required. Liquid manures and weak 
guano water, alternately each week in the summer 
season, are beneficial applications. This chapter, 
however, can only be considered as suggestive, 
and as such only is it offered. 

No. 5. — Aspects and Shelters. 

The proper aspect for the Peach tree in England 
should be as nearly due south as can be secured. 
South-east ranks next, and after this south-west. 
Much, however, depends on the locality of the 
garden and the position of the nearest shelter from 
high and cold currents of air. The prevailing 
winds must be carefully considered as to their 
effects on vegetation, and the Peach wall removed 
as much as possible from their full force. In 
France, M. Dubreuil recommended the south-east 
as the very best aspect. At Montreuil, where the 
sun's rays are scorching in summer, an east or 
west aspect is generally preferred. In mid-France 
they place the late varieties facing the south. The 
early kinds and the bulk of the trees are assigned 
to the east walls ; but none are placed on west 



32 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

walls if it can be avoided. At Montreuil so power- 
ful is even the early sun, that trees flourish which 
have no sun after 10 a.m. In such aspects, how- 
ever, the trees make very long shoots, and give 
extra trouble to the pruner. 

The proper height for a good Peach wall must 
be regulated in some measure by the situation. 
Where the ground is level, and the aspect south, 
the wall may be the highest. Very splendid fruit 
can be grown even on walls 6 feet high ; indeed, 
many are greatly in favour of low walls, as pro- 
moting free circulation of air in low and confined 
situations. The Montreuil walls are only 8 or 9 
feet high; but then the form of training there 
admits of no riders, and favours considerable 
lateral extension of the branches. If low walls 
are adopted — that is, about the height of those 
at Montreuil — about 20 feet horizontally will 
be requisite for the trees to develope themselves 
laterally. If, on the contrary, the garden wall be 
12 feet high, the trees may be planted at 15 feet 
intervals from stem to stem, with riders placed 
midway between them to cover the upper parts 
of the wall, which the dwarf- trained trees below 
could not ascend to. In favourable soil and 
climates the Peach tree, when doing well, will, 
however, greatly exceed these limits, but there is 
nothing gained by these immense trees. It must 



ASPECTS AND SHELTERS. 



33 



be borne in mind that the modern methods of 
training the Peach do not favour such extension ; 
they rather favour the practice of having more 
trees in the same space, by which plan many ad- 
vantages are gained, as will be seen presently. 

Of the utility of copings there is little doubt. 
These should be fixed, and projecting not more 
than 3 or 4 inches, as more than this would shade 
the upper branches by June, and intercept the 
dews and warm summer showers. Besides these 
permanent copings, iron brackets should be fixed 
into the walls, close under the copings. These 
brackets should project outwards about 12 inches. 
They should be of the shape of a triangle, one 
side secured against the wall, and on the upper 
side boards of inch-deal should be laid and screwed 
to the brackets. When the fruit has set, these 
boards should be removed and laid by till, in 
many localities where the rainfall is great, the 
heavy rains of September necessitate their being 
replaced. In southern districts this may not. be 
required. 

But the Peach requires other defences against 
the bad weather, in the shape of stout tiffany 
screens or protectors reaching from the brackets 
to within 2 feet of the ground. Lower is not 
needed for the safety of the blossoms. These 
protectors should be used from February till the 
c 



34 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



fruit has fairly set, and they should be left off 
gradually. Their object being to protect the 
young leaves, and especially to favour the setting 
of the fruit, they should be drawn up during the 
day, and let down only at night, or during storms 
of wind and rain, or fogs. Great care is needed 
not to stifle the growth of the tree. On the utility 
and daily management of tiffany protectors, I 
quote from a letter from the Rev. W. F. Radclyffe. 
To show how situation affects temperature, he 
says, " Being in a valley close to the water, the 
frosts are severe. After black frosts cease, for 
eight or ten weeks hoar frosts succeed. It would 
be hopeless to grow Peaches without efficient pro- 
tection. Fir boughs and netting would here be 
moonshine. I find the leaves even more tender 
than the blossoms. In severe winters like this I 
keep on the protectors, unless the weather is mild, 
by night and sometimes by clay. Snow or sleet 
should never get into the trees. The protectors 
are put on as soon as the fruit-buds swell. They 
are let down at 4 p.m. and raised in fine weather 
at 10 a.m. If the weather is bad they remain on 
even for several days. They must be left off gra- 
dually, as cold draughts are injurious." 

It remains only to mention that I have seen in- 
stances where much injury was done to the trees 
by these protectors being placed too near to them, 



ASPECTS AND SHELTERS. 



35 



the wind, by impinging directly on the surface of 
the protectors, causing them to beat sharply against 
the leaves and blossoms. 

It seems useless to expect a crop of Peaches, 
even in favoured localities, without some such 
protection as the above. Nor is the expense 
great, these protectors serving for several seasons? 
and the trouble is amply repaid. During the hard 
frosts of winter the Peach tree may suffer ; but 
the danger is not in reality great in ordinary sea- 
sons, provided the wood of the tree is ripe. The 
difference this makes in the welfare of the tree is 
very great, nor is it surprising when we remember 
that the Peach is a native of Persia. Though 
the winter frosts of that country are exceedingly 
severe, yet the Peach tree survives them simply 
because the fierce sun of the preceding summer 
has most thoroughly ripened the young wood it 
is rather the excess of autumn rainfall in England, 
after a cloudy summer, which endangers the vi- 
tality of the tree. If to this be added injudicious 
pruning and cold undrained borders, what possible 
chance of success can be expected ? 

Let us, then, be very careful to secure such gn 
aspect as shall best ripen the wood ; then shelter 
from cold currents of wind mingled with rain must 
be obtained. Generally speaking such shelter 
should be perpendicular, facing the wall. Air is 
c 2 



35 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



elastic and readily turned aside. Openings, how- 
ever small, must increase the violence of the blast. 
Plunging winds without outlet, as in the case of 
small gardens enclosed by high walls, are ex- 
tremely unfavourable. Imagine such a rush of 
air for hours together, and directed against un- 
sheltered trees, and this during a period of low 
temperature, and then you will feel no surprise at 
their being unproductive and diseased. 

Every advantage, then, must be taken of neigh- 
bouring shelter in laying out a garden. On the 
western coasts the general exposure of the whole 
garden should be sheltered from the south-west 
quarter. In the Channel Islands, exposed as they 
are to the force of the Atlantic gales, this is care- 
fully studied. Each year brings disasters to our 
gardens, and we do not so much dread winds from 
an eastern quarter as from a western. In the 
eastern counties of England, however, all testi- 
mony goes to prove how fearfully destructive to 
the tender leaves and shoots of the Peach are the 
cold evaporating effects of a continuous east wind. 
Above all, let the amateur direct his attention to 
securing this shelter without losing unnecessarily 
one precious ray of sunshine in our cloudy regions: 
therefore the protection must be somewhat distant 
from the trees, and yet not too far. On very long' 
walls temporary screens, placed across the borders 



ASPECTS AND SHELTERS. 



37 



so as to deflect the scud of the wind, are advan- 
tageous, but buttresses to the walls throw a dan- 
gerous shade, and are not to be recommended. 

The material of which the wall is constructed is 
not very important. Brick seems, on the whole, 
the best material, and wire trellisses are, no doubt, 
by far the best to use for training purposes and for 
obtaining beautiful forms ; still the old shreds of 
cloth have many advantages, as have also studs 
fixed in the wall for training to them with soft 
wire. The great object is to secure the radiated 
heat of the wall. It is astonishing what a differ- 
ence an inch makes in this way. Some have even 
recommended obtaining ft succession of crops by 
varying the space between the branches and the 
wall, but modern practice relies more on the 
numerous varieties of fruit now known. 

The " Modern Peach- primer" has no faith in 
the practical utility of heated walls. What are 
glazed coverings for Peach walls but narrow and 
stifling contrivances to effect what wide and 
commodious orchard-houses do so much better? 
When once we desert the time-honoured open 
wall, now so elaborately furnished with Peach ap- 
pliances, why should we adopt half-measures, and 
middle courses ? not to speak of the great advan- 
tage of combining the two methods so as to secure 
the best of each. I mean that in a combination of 



38 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



a good Peach Avail, with a properly-managed 
orchard-house, the amateur will find everything 
he can reasonably desire. This, at least, is within 
the reach of many, whilst the more expensive 
heated Peach-house can still be added by such as 
wish an earlier produce. 

No. 6. — Transplanting. 

The time and mode of planting a young Peach 
tree may now be considered. Very much of the 
after-success of the tree depends on this being 
rightly done; therefore it is a more important 
operation than at first sight might appear. 

A tree may either be reared in our own gardens, 
or it may be purchased at some neighbouring 
nursery. In either case it need not be long out 
of the ground ; and this constitutes a case differ- 
ing somewhat from that in which trees are received 
from a distance. 

In the first supposition, if the tree has been 
trained against a warm wall, with all its branches 
and shoots fully exposed to the sun, then it will be 
in first-rate condition for transplanting. By taking- 
care of the all-important spongioles, by replanting, 
at a short interval of time, carefully in a suitable 
soil, and on a mild and genial day, no check will 
take place, and root and leaf will soon resume 



TRANSPLANTING. 



39 



their reciprocal functions. Supposing the tree not 
to have been reared under such favourable condi- 
tions, but still not to have been more than a few 
hours out of the ground before replanting, it may 
then also be depended upon (care being taken not 
to mutilate the roots, which is the main point) to 
continue its growth without much check. 

In both these cases early planting is recom- 
mended. The leaves being still on the branches, 
though they droop when the tree is lifted, they will 
soon recover their state of tension, and be ready to 
receive their daily supply of sap from the roots, 
which, being unmutilated, will also shortly recom- 
mence their proper functions. 

We may even expect that some new cellular 
tissue will be added to the spongioles, by reason of 
this early change of place before winter comes on ; 
for if transplanting be done in October, there is at 
that period much latent and unexpended earth 
heat, which heat is absolutely necessary to enable 
the roots to extract from the soil the food proper 
for the tree. Besides, the leaves being also unin- 
jured, begin to elaborate the fresh sap, and so 
increase that reserve of cambium, which some 
think is dispersed in the interior tissues of the tree, 
for the purpose of preserving its vitality during 
the trials of the winter season. This seems a 
reasonable supposition, and an explanation of the 



40 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

reason why early transplanting is so beneficial when 
properly performed. Our French neighbours are 
not unaware of this, for, at Montreuil, November is 
considered to be the proper month for planting; 
but then there is, no doubt, as much heat in the 
earth during November in that sunny spot as there 
is in our cloudy land during October. When, 
however, trees are received from a distance the 
case is different. The leaves cannot be expected 
to recover, and no advantage can be obtained by 
planting so early. Provided, then, care is taken 
to anticipate the extreme cold of November, early 
in that month is a suitable time. 

Should early planting be impossible, it is not a 
bad plan to wait till mild weather sets in in 
February or March. Dry, windy, or sunny days, 
are unfavourable for transplanting, on account of 
the amount of evaporation they promote in the 
tree : for even when the trees are without leaves, 
evaporation takes place through the bark ; and if 
there be no corresponding absorption of moisture 
through the spongioles to supply this waste., they 
being out of the ground, the tree suffers, A mild, 
rather damp day is then the best for the operation 
we are describing. 

Of course, young trees are by far the most easy 
to remove. Whenever large fruit trees are trans- 
planted, men, of great experience in such matters, 



TRANSPLANTING. 



41 



tell us that the success of the operation depends 
mainly on the quantity of earth removed with the 
roots. They also recommend such large trees to 
be removed in a growing state, because the moisture 
remaining in the earth adhering to the roots is at 
once assimilated as food for the tree. But when the 
earth is cold, and the tree dormant, this moisture 
surrounding the roots is not absorbed by them, 
nor can it be. The result is, that it has rather a 
tendency to rot the roots, more especially those 
portions which have been injured. There is no 
doubt that the whole subject of transplantation is 
a very interesting one, and deserves careful study. 

The process of planting is as follows : — Having 
chosen the young Peach tree for its clear and 
polished bark, the proper distance to place the 
stem from the wall is about six inches. Some say 
four inches ; but on the authority of the best culti- 
vators in England, it is stated at six. 

If the tree is to be planted where no other has 
stood, a hole twice the diameter of the roots when 
spread out is sufficient. If otherwise, the old 'soil 
must be removed, and the opening made much 
wider. A piece of pavement, or a wide flat stone 
is generally placed under the tree to prevent the 
roots striking downwards. The old monks always 
did this, and famous gardeners they were. Roots 
grow in tiers ; therefore the lowest tier must be 



42 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



carefully spread out all round, occupying the 
ground without crossing each other if possible. 
Fine pulverised soil must be shaken over this 
lowest tier, but no manure must ever touch them. 
Never tread on the roots, as so many do, and 
never move the tree up and down, which absurd 
practice has the effect of doubling up the fine ends 
of the roots underneath. Break down the sides of 
the hole for fresh earth, and place pieces of turf 
cut from a rich field for the roots to run into at 
their first start. Then the upper tier of the roots 
should be spread out fanwise in the same careful 
way, and equally covered. When the earth is 
filled in to three -fourths, water freely in light soils, 
and less in firm ones. More water in any case 
should be given to trees planted in the spring. 
Mulching at the time of transplanting is an excel- 
lent old custom ; it excludes frost, and lessens 
evaporation. 

Deep planting is an evil in the case of fruit 
trees. No tree should be planted deeper than it 
formerly grew, or it will be in danger of having its 
roots stifled for want of air ; and this will cause 
the tree to languish, till, by an effort of nature, it 
pushes out roots nearer to the surface for air. 
Thus delay will arise instead of progress. It is by 
far the best, especially in firm and retentive soils, 
to plant the tree so that a small mound is ne- 



TRANSPLANTING. 



43 



cessary to cover the roots. Let these be within an 
inch or so of the surface — the ground will always 
settle. Deep planting should always be avoided. 
If done, the tree makes no spring growth, but 
grows late in the year — exactly the reverse of 
what we require. 

Some trees are notoriously more difficult to 
transplant than others. Some place them in this 
order as to risk — first the Cherry, then the Apricot, 
and then the Peach ; but if carefully done there is 
little real danger. We should never forget to 
secure transplanted trees firmly to the wall, for 
fear of high winds. 

In the case of the Peach there is always a 
certain danger lest the buds which have remained 
latent during the whole of one season should not 
break at all; therefore the tree may be headed 
down soon after it is planted, as a rule. Never- 
theless, could we secure the roots intact, there 
would be little need of this. If the tree has been 
grown in a pot the roots ought to be entire ; and 
having shaken out most of the ball of earth, the 
roots should then be spread out well, and no 
shortening ought to be required. This, of course, 
presupposes that the tree ; while in a pot, has been 
regularly trained for the particular form required. 

On the whole, it cannot be said that trees which 
have been more than three years in pots are the 



44 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

best suited for planting out. The roots become 
strong, and Have an inward twist, which makes it 
perilous to endeavour to open them out well. A 
year or two may be passed with very great profit 
if the trees be well looked to, and pots changed as 
the roots fill them, Up to three years this may 
be done ; and certainly the way that vertical 
cordons, three years established in large pots, and 
full of fruit-buds, both grow and bear the season 
after they are planted out, would astonish those 
who depreciate pot-cultivation. 

No. 7. — Useful Maxims. 

1 . It is essential to form the tree into two equal 
wings, so as to direct the main current of the 
ascending sap into two channels. By this means 
it is best mastered and held in check. The sap 
has always a very great tendency to flow in a 
vertical direction, therefore any vertical line is a 
difficulty in training. The consequence of a 
neglect of this law in vegetation is that the lower 
portion of a tree becomes feeble, bears small fruit, 
is exhausted even by this production, languishes, 
and dries up, while the upper branches, receiving 
a superabundance of sap which, cannot be elabo- 
rated, become rankly luxuriant, and so produce 
few flower-buds. 



USEFUL MAXIMS. 



45 



2. In forming a tree it is an error to trust to 
shortening bade the branches at the winter pruning. 
A better mode would be, during the period of 
growth, to incline a too strong branch to a hori- 
zontal direction, and to tie up vertically a too 
weak branch. Of all the plans adopted for this 
purpose this is the simplest and the most effica- 
cious. The weaker branch should also be allowed 
a greater freedom, so that the sun and air may 
have free access all around it. Any shoots on the 
weaker branch which are to be ultimately removed, 
should be allowed to remain on it as long as pos- 
sible, to attract the sap to it. The more leaves 
thus left the more strength does the branch gain. 
The contrary practice, of course, should be applied 
to the too vigorous branch of the other wing;. 
Fruits exhaust the branch, as they require much 
sap to nourish them ; therefore, we should not 
leave too many on a weak branch, where, how- 
eveiv, they generally soonest appear. 

JBy a combination of these simple means the 
equilibrium of the vegetation of the tree may* be 
restored during: the season of growth, leaving com- 
paratively little to be done at the winter pruning. 
Considerable amputations always injure trees, how- 
ever well performed. The modern school espe- 
cially recognises this principle, which is so much 
aided by the summer-stopping of the shoots, that 



46 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

little or no shortening of the leading branches is 
ever required. We require all the growth a tree 
can make ; and the object proposed by shortening - 
in the branches, often by fully one-third of their 
length, so as to make the lower eyes break, can 
and ought to be obtained by more natural means. 
If we take care of the fruitful shoots these will 
soon master the branch. The only use of the 
latter is to carry the former, and these should be 
especially attended to. 

3. If we wish to obtain fruitful shoots the 
branches must be left as long as possible. A con- 
trary practice produces only excessively vigorous 
shoots which are unfruitful. Trees only produce 
flower-buds when, after having acquired a certain 
development, the sap circulates more slowly. The 
forms which trained trees are made to assume, 
very much contribute to favour the production of 
flower-buds, by distributing the current of the sap 
into diverging lines, and avoiding all vertical lines. 
The more these forms are completed, the more 
trouble the sap has to circulate, and the more time 
it has to become fully elaborated in the leaves by 
the action of the light, and air. The sap, con- 
verted into cambium, must also descend more 
slowly by each separate channel. This is a 
valuable aid towards the production of fruit-buds, 
these, probably, being produced by the descending 



USEFUL MAXIMS. 



47 



fluid alone. Be this as it may (and the question 
is not as yet satisfactorily decided) all seem agreed 
that, to a diminished circulation is owing the for- 
mation of the genuine fruit-bud. Lifting the tree, 
without injuring the roots, is a powerful remedy 
when it is too vigorous, and making rank growths. 
In many forms, however, which will be hereafter 
more fully entered into, the lifting is never neces- 
sary in Peach trees, because by summer-stopping 
the shoots are rendered fruitful, while the roots, 
from the close planting of the trees, cannot acquire 
any undue development. In the orchard-house 
I have never lifted any Peach trees, because ferti- 
lity was obtainable by the other means described. 
Diagonal cordon Peach trees, having only short 
fruitful shoots on the main branches or leaders, 
are easily restrained in vigour. The fruit are 
produced close to the main leaders, by which they 
receive the direct action of the sap, and so become 
largest. 

4. It is an axiom in Peach culture thus to obtain 
the fruit close to the base of the shoots. When, 
on the contrary, these shoots are allowed to pro- 
duce spray, as well as the spurs, a number of 
useless flower-buds are formed which the tree has 
no strength to mature. The sap is exhausted by 
following so many needless channels, and the fruits 
either fall at the period of stoning, or remain small 



48 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



and hard. This defect is apparent chiefly in trees 
pruned on the " long system." On the other hand, 
by close and judicious summer-stopping, in ordinary 
summers, the flower-buds will be developed near 
the very base of each shoot. 

5. During severe weather no priming whatever 
should be undertaken, either of trees in the open 
air or in the orchard-house. The danger lies in 
exposing by the cut the orifices of the sap-vessels ; 
these burst, and are liable to decay. Such trees as 
are exhausted by their crop should be cut early in 
the autumn. This operation relieves the tree, and 
aids in promoting the next year's crop. After a 
sunny and dry summer the wood is ripe, and should 
also be pruned early, for the reason mentioned 
above. 

6. Never prune the Peach tree much at one 
time. If pruned during the period of growth, 
much sap is lost from the wounded shoots before 
they can cicatrise. If this occurs in the winter, 
that being the time for any more important change, 
the tree always feels it. Bending down branches 
even at that time is not always a safe operation, 
unless gradually done, because at the lower portion, 
where the bend occurs, the bark is compressed, 
and the sap cannot ascend nor descend there so 
well as it did previously. On the other hand, 
the upper portion of the bark is distended extremely, 



V 



LONG PEACH SHOOTS. 



49 



and there is much risk of a very strong* wood shoot 
pushing vertically. A portion of the winter pru- 
ning should, therefore, be left for February ; many 
shoots about which the primer had not made up 
his mind may then be regulated, not to mention 
the numerous unavoidable accidents which occur 
during a whole season, and disorder all our calcu- 
lations. 

7. Above all, let the amateur avoid considerable 
amputations of his Peach trees. When he has to 
perform one, let him cut cleanly and as close as 
he can to the base of the ramification. 

No. 8. — Long Peach Shoots. 

Hardly any matter is of such importance in Peach- 
pruning* as a right knowledge of the distinctive 
characters of the shoots. That they differ widely 
is certain, therefore any instruction on this point, 
must be founded on some common principles, 
before it can be of real value. Even the practised 
pruner is instinctively guided by certain well- 
established rules, in his selection or rejection of the 
coming season's wood, but these rules are the 
result of longer experience than usually happens 
to the amateur. The almost entire absence of any 
classification of Peach shoots in the works of the 
older writers was an essential defect, and rendered 

D 



50 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



much of their excellent teaching practically useless. 
Possibly this was owing, in a great measure, to the 
paucity of illustrations common in those days, for 
without such invaluable aids it seems- simply im- 
possible even now to attempt any profitable in- 
struction. 

Modern practice, indeed, by a species of reaction, 
has rather erred on the side of copious illustration 
joined to minute detail ; but the result has been 
good : the amateur has largely profited thereby, 
and this alone would have amply justified the new 
method. 

There is, then, no classification of Peach shoots 
of any value till we take up Professor Dubreuil's 
late work on the general subject of fruit culture. 
Taking, then, this high authority for our basis, we 
can the more readily approach this interesting 
portion of our subject. 

Under M. Dubreuil's system all shoots are 
divided into six distinct classes. After careful 
consideration, this number has been extended to 
eight, and the whole has been re-arranged in two 
divisions. The first four classes are mainly found 
in long pruning, while the remaining four, though 
occurring also in that system, are principally to be 
found in close pruning, and especially in all 
orchard-house work. This division is also con- 
venient for reference. Every type of shoot which 



FIRST DIVISION OF PEACH SHOOTS. 51 

occurs in ordinary cases will be found ranged 
under one or other division. To show the unac- 
countable neglect into which this matter had 
fallen, it will be enough to mention that new 
names have been given to several of the classes, 
which, though well known to pruners, had no 
recognised nomenclature. These names have been 
added under the sanction of the best authority, 
while the shoots themselves have been carefully 
drawn from nature by practised hands. They 
possess the additional value of being now engraved, 
for the first time, of the natural dimensions, by 
which means they can be much more readily dis- 
tinguished. 

1st Division of Peach Shoots. 

1. The Wood Shoot. — Fig. 1 is the wood shoot 
of the purest type ; rameau a bois^ of Dubreuil. 
This is a vigorous class, and indicates either a 
very early stage of development, or, if found in 
the case of older trees, rather a superfluous amoitnt 
of sap. It is depicted with the leaf-buds just 
elongating under the influence of the continuous 
movement of the ascending sap, exercising an 
almost mechanical pressure at their axils. Under 
the powerful influences of light and heat, in a 
short time each of these buds will become a green 
d 2 



52 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



shoot provided with leaves, which, elaborating the 
sap, will speedily augment the dimensions of the 
whole, both in length and in breadth. This class 
of shoots is common on young and growing trees. 
When it occurs as an extension, it is far better to 
endeavour, by judicious summer-stopping of the 
buds a, a, a, as they lengthen into shoots, to make 
them fruit-bearing, and then little or no shortening- 
in of the extension will be needed at the winter 
pruning. The tree will thus gain much. A con- 
trary practice will end in producing other wood 
shoots of No. 1 class, arising from the buds a, a, a. 
Whenever this unfortunate circumstance occurs, 
then these wood shoots should be cut very short 
back to try for fruit again. Of course, it is not 
supposed that this class of shoot should be laid-in 
for bearing purposes at the winter pruning. It is 
naturally a long shoot, and has occasionally some 
feeble blossom-buds near its extremity, which are 
valueless. At the lowest a (at the junction of the 
one and two-year-old wood), we perceive a wood- 
bud, which will probably become a short fruit- 
bearing spur. 

2. The Fruit Shoot. Rameau a fruit, proprement 
dit, Dubreuil. — Fig. 2. is a type of the ordinary 
fruit-bearing shoot. This shoot is a good specimen 
of the long-pruning style. The blossom-buds at 
b, b, b, are all double, and have a leaf-bud between 



FIRST DIVISION OF PEACH SHOOTS. 



53 




Fig. 1. Fig. 2. 

THE WOOD SHOOT. THE FRUIT SHOOT. 



54 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



them. Sometimes they occur as a single blossom- 
bud, and a single leaf-bud. This formation is easy 
to manage, and is variously treated. Sometimes 
the shoot is laid-in at full length, a reprehensible 
practice, except in the case of exhausted trees 
where leaves principally are wanted ; and some- 
times, being cut back to about 10 inches, it is 
partially disbudded, which seems a waste of ma- 
terial. This class, however, will bear much ill- 
treatment, chiefly because it can hardly be cut-in 
wrongly, as there is a leaf-bud present with each 
group of blossom-buds. 

3. The Mixed Shoot {fig. 3), Rameau mixte, 
Dubreuil. — This class partakes of the characters 
of Nos. 1 and 2, having the leaf-buds of the former 
(only frequently doubled) for some way up, and 
then changing into the fruit-bearing groups 
peculiar to No. 2. It indicates a stronger growth 
than class No. 2, and is probably due to a vertical 
position at the upper side of some branch, or an 
extension of some bush tree. Perhaps a cold wet 
spring, abruptly succeeded by bright sun, has 
altered its character, and caused blossom-buds to 
be produced high up the shoot. These changes 
are, however, subject to laws not yet well ex- 
plained. This class requires careful summer 
handling, and is more difficult to prune than 
No. 2. At the winter season, if it present the 



FIRST DIVISION OF PEACH SHOOTS. 55 

appearance here shown, it would be well to cut it 
in very short, and thus divide it. To cut it long 
so as to bear is 5 indeed, long pruning, and cannot 
be recommended here. As an extension it is, 
however, excellent. 

4. The Gross Shoot (fig. 4), Gourmand, Dubreuil. 
—This is a dangerous class, and it should never 
be permitted to appear except as an extension. It 
is represented of the ordinary thickness, but fre- 
quently becomes very much stronger. From it 
are developed laterals of summer growth, which 
are called " anticipes" (literally, premature shoots) 
by the French. These summer laterals are the 
bugbear of very close primers, for on their careful 
management or otherwise depends the character 
of their work. We notice that the leaf-buds a are 
generally not so prominent as in class 1 ; and on 
the laterals, in the case of that on the right, the 
leaf-buds are double, and well placed at the inser- 
tion of the lateral on the parent shoot, and therefore 
no blank space will appear when these laterals are 
transformed into fruit-bearers. In the case of -the 
left-hand lateral, however, these two leaf-buds are 
suspiciously distant, and the dormant bud visible 
at the base cannot be depended on, and if not 
developed during the ensuing season, probably 
never will be. This is a peculiarity of the Peach, 
therefore the right-hand lateral is of much greater 



56 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 




SHORT PEACH SHOOTS. 



5? 



value than the left-hand one. At b b we notice 
feeble blossom-buds, with a terminal bud, c. These 
laterals vary considerably in size, of course. In 
mid France they become independent shoots, and 
able to bear, owing to the growth made under 
those favourable conditions. No. 4 should be 
checked whenever not needed. It is known by 
its erect character, darker colour, and well- 
developed leaves, and should be stopped to about 
two inches when it has made about six inches of 
growth. It will then divide into two weaker shoots 
of some class or other, generally of No. 1, and 
become manageable. The anticipes, or premature 
shoots, require a chapter to themselves, and will be 
further discussed when we come to close pruning. 

These four classes have much in common, as 
No. 1 easily passes into No. 4, according to 
circumstances. No. 2 is the highest organisation, 
of course, and No. 3 a class only of a mixed 
character. More need not be said at present on 
this head, as these shoots will have to be referred 
to continually. 



No. 9. — Short Peach Shoots. 

We now come to the consideration of the shorter 
shoots of the Peach. These valuable classes have 
hardly met with the notice they deserve at the 



58 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

hands of long pruners. Indeed, in some works it 
is recommended to suppress them as much as 
possible. This is a great error ; for other writers, 
such as Knight and Dubreuil, recommend their 
careful preservation, wherever found at all possible; 
and in the works of such masters of close pruning 
as Professor Gressent, of Orleans, and M. Grin, of 
Chartres, the main dependance for fruit is placed 
on Class 5, which is well known, moreover, to 
produce the finest specimens. Very close prun- 
ing, such as is well suited to orchard-house trees, 
rarely fails to develope Classes 5 and 7 in great 
abundance, especially in the case of established 
trees, Though all the classes of this division occur 
under every form of training, they are peculiarly 
the result of that sudden concentration of the sap, 
during the period of its greatest ascent, at the 
base of the shoot, which is produced by judicious 
summer-stopping. In some mysterious way an 
obstacle is created, which appears to concentrate 
the cambium in the cellular tissue near the base of 
the nascent bud, and by this retarded circulation 
to produce eventually a cluster of blossom-buds, 
which are eminently fruitful. It is not, however, 
pretended that late summer-stopping would be 
so successful. 



SECOND DIVISION OF PEACH SHOOTS. 



59 



2nd Division of Peach Shoots. 

5. The Cluster Shoot or Spur (fig. 5). — The 
word cluster, which so appropriately represents 
the appearance of the blossom-buds b, round the 
terminal leaf-bud c, is synonymous with the French 
term "bouquet/" By this last name this particular 
spur is known all over France. Bubreuil calls it 
rameau a fruit bouquet ; and Gressent and Lepere 
call it bouquet de max. Knight appears to desig- 
nate it as a " spur," and the word " cluster" may 
be considered an appropriate English rendering. 
Class 5 constitutes the basis of very close pruning, 
such as that which M. Grin, of Chartres, practises, 
and is also the end and aim of established orchard- 
house training. This class is common on the two 
and three-year-old wood, and indicates both fertility 
and health in the tree. Under all forms of cordon 
trained Peach trees this type is abundant. To- 
gether with No. 7 it should, in orchard-houses, form 
the greatest portion of the fruit-bearing shoots. 
In the case of a Downton Nectarine bush, which 
had been about eight years in a pot in my orchard- 
house, out of 120 fruitful shoots no less than 110 
were of Classes 5 and 7. The blossom-buds almost 
all set in clusters of four or five, requiring to be 
thinned clown to one fine specimen. All writers 



60 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



agree that this class of shoot should not be meddled 
with or pruned in any way ; neither should it ever 
be rubbed off, no matter where it occurs. It is a 
perfect type, and will reproduce itself by means of 
its terminal leaf-bud, besides maturing the finest 
fruit. At the ensuing season it may present the 
appearance of 



c 




Fis. 5. Fig. 6. 

THE CLUSTER SPUR. FRUIT SPUR AFTER BEARING. 



6. The Fruit Spur after bearing {fig. 6).— This 
is one of the types of perfect shoots which have 
been added to M. Dubreuil's classification. It has, 
therefore, no French synonymous name; never- 
theless, it is of a sufficiently distinctive character 
and appearance to warrant a separate notice. To 
orchard-house pruners especially it will be wel- 
come, as it is occasionally difficult to treat. The 
reason is that the specimen, here drawn from nature, 



SECOND DIVISION OF PEACH SHOOTS. 61 



is of a slender form, and the blossom-buds at b 
have evidently fallen off without setting, which 
shows a want of vitality in the tree. A shorter 
and more sturdy form, then, might have been 
chosen to represent the class, and then it would 
probably have appeared where the fruit had been 
attached. This one has not elongated much, the 
leaf-bud c marks its extreme development ; at the 
same time it is on the point of extension, and will, 
by the end of the summer, remain a short bearing 
cluster shoot, all the portion below c being, however, 
bare ever afterwards. It is certainly a good class 
of shoot, and should not be suppressed in orchard- 
house pruning, and rarely, unless a foreright, in 
out-door work. It will not grow strongly in any 
case and is, therefore, valuable for bearing next 
season. It has but the single defect of an inch of 
unfruitful wood. Not to notice it would be to 
leave amateurs in ignorance of what the numerous 
" clusters " look like after the season is over. 

7. The Fruit Spray (fig. 7). — This class is in- 
cluded by Dubreuil under the head of " proper 
fruit shoots," which he says are " from 4 inches" 
in length ; but from other specimens which were 
photographed for this work, and which were taken 
from strong-growing trees, it was seen how this 
type passes, like the others, into Class No. 2 when- 
ever the blossom-buds are arranged in groups, with 



62 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



a leaf-bud between them. It is the fact of the 
single blossom-buds, in which No. 6 alone partici- 
pates, which marks the distinctive character of this 
beautiful class. 8 also has only single blossom- 
buds, but it has no terminal leaf-bud, which No. 
7 has; 7 has, therefore, been promoted to the 
honour of being a separate type, and it occurs very 
frequently on healthy and well-managed trees, 
both in-doors and in the open air. This class 
having a terminal leaf-bud will, besides bearing, 
extend, and having sometimes a latent bud at the 
base may, by judicious summer-stopping, become 
double, in which case, generally, shoots of the same 
character will be formed. This is a valuable dis- 
position in this class, and, for many reasons, it 
should be retained instead of being suppressed, as 
it often is. 5 and 7 are essentially orchard-house 
shoots, being developed more readily under the 
somewhat artificial treatment therein practised. 

8. Barren Spray. Chiffon of Dubreuil {fig. 8). — 
An unsatisfactory class, indicating neglect or a bad 
habit of the tree itself. There is much difference 
of opinion among long pruners how to treat this 
class, but, if retained, they should be cut to above 
the lowest fruit-bud. They occur in orchard-house 
bush trees frequently, and show defective pruning, 
because, by stopping, they would probably have 
passed into some other type, or, at the worst, dried 



SECOND DIVISION OF TEACH SHOOTS. 63 




64 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



some being much longer than the specimen se- 
lected, and others having a bare portion below 
them. All this arises from neglecting to observe 
that there is no terminal leaf-bud, so that the shoot 
is blind. 

These eight classes of shoots are all that we may 
look to find in ordinary cases. Wherever there 
seems any variation from them it is because they 
are passing into another form ; but even this can 
be readily recognised, and need not cause any per- 
plexity. 1 and 4 are the only pure wood shoots, 
for the others are more or less all fruit-bearing. It 
is to be hoped that rules for pruning are simplified 
by means of this classification. All may not be of 
one mind as to these rules, but the general prin- 
ciples here laid down were, of course, the first thing 
requiring to be settled. It may be added here, 
that/ perhaps the very best modern authorities on 
these matters, have given their approval to this 
arrangement of the shoots. One great difficulty 
was to render appropriately the names by which 
some are known on the continent ; another was 
the want of precision in the current horticultural 
terms. 

]N r o. 10. — Forms of Trees for Long Pruning. 
On the question of form, there is not so much real 
difference of opinion as to the most advantageous 



FORMS OF TREES FOR LONG PRUNING. 65 

way of managing the shoots. It is true we can 
find, especially in the French works, a great variety 
of shapes indicated as suitable, according to circum- 
stances, but many of them are too fantastic to be 
of any practical use. Examining them is not, 
however, without profit, for we may generally 
trace in them some leading principle based on re- 
liable experience. Thus the student will discover 
that the chief aim and object steadily adhered to, 
has generally been, to divide, as near the base of 
the tree as possible, the main current of the 
ascending sap, into two well-balanced portions. 
Wherever this leading principle has been departed 
from, it will be seen that the object then in view 
was to cover a somewhat lofty wall in the quickest 
manner, without, at the same time, sacrificing the 
claim of the lower branches to be properly consti- 
tuted. For this purpose, the main central stem 
has been provided, much less lateral expansion 
has been allowed, whilst the lowest branches have 
sometimes been turned upwards at their extremi- 
ties, to favour their development, for that develop- 
ment is always endangered under this form. It is 
evident that walls of 9 or 10 feet in height, which 
are by no means the worst suited for many loca- 
lities, require a shape combining great power of 
lateral expansion, without sacrificing the harmoni- 
ous proportions of the whole tree. To accomplish 

E 



FORMS OF TREES FOR LONG PRUNING. 67 



this there is certainly no form which equals the 
espalier carre, of which, as the same indicates, the 
squareness constitutes the chief advantage. 

This form has, therefore, been selected as a model 
for walls of about 9 or 10 feet in height, where 
a large tree of any favourite variety was desired. 
At the same time it cannot be too often repeated 
that modern gardeners prefer smaller sized trees, and 
more in number. In this way a succession of crops 
is best secured, and a greater variety of fruits may 
be cultivated. 

For walls of about 12 feet in height the old 
Montreuil fan is extremely well adapted. It is a 
symmetrical shape, easy to establish, and durable. 
In both of these old and well-known forms it will 
be seen, that the sap has been directed into two 
main channels, from the commencement of the 
formation of the trees. These channels remain »to 
the last as the main arteries of the whole system. 
Their position, at the most favourable angle, and 
their early formation cause, as Lepere truly re- 
marks, the sap to acquire " the habit of using them 
in preference," while their larger proportions secure 
a more abundant flow. Kept carefully balanced, 
by the usual means, during the first five or six 
years, they continue as the guiding principles of 
either wing. Their importance and use are aptly 
explained by their French name, " mother branches/' 
e 2 



68 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



and in each of these forms they are marked 1, in 
our engravings. 

The espalier carre, and Montreuil fan, are neither 
of them difficult to acquire. Their harmonious 
proportions are far more pleasing, even when with- 
out foliage, than the ordinary irregular fan shapes. 
It is surprising that these irregular shapes should 
still be recommended in works on this subject. 
The reason given is that the vicissitudes of the 
English climate require irregular forms, as being 
those most easily remedied when injured. But it 
would seldom happen that either of the leading 
branches in the espalier carre could be irretrievably 
injured, while in the case of the Montreuil fan, it 
would suffice to lower the branch immediately 
above the injured portion into the blank space, 
allowing a new shoot to grow from its upper side 
to fill up its old place. For these and other rea- 
sons these two forms are here selected as models 
for long pruning. Other forms will occur when 
close pruning is treated of. Those with a main 
central stem from which lateral branches are de- 
veloped yearly, are of obvious formation. In them 
the lowest branches should be carefully established 
from the first, as these generally languish in the 
course of time. 



THE OLD MONTREUIL FAN. 



69 



The Old Montreuil Fan. 

In the first year the leading branch (marked 1) of 
either wing is developed, and carefully balanced by 
the usual means (described in No. 7, Section 2). 
Both of these leading branches are shortened to 
about 12 inches at the first winter pruning, and 
during the course of the second season of growth, 
the secondary branch (marked 2) of either wing is 
developed. At the winter pruning, the leaders (1) 
are shortened in again, but considerably less (unless 
bare), while the secondaries (2) are encouraged 
to extend more freely. During the third season 
of growth, another secondary (marked 3), and a 
tertiary (marked 7) in either wing, are simulta- 
neously produced. The winter shortenings of all 
these branches are now still less. During the 
fourth year, all these existing branches are simply 
maintained in equilibrium, in order to remedy any 
defects before proceeding further. In the mean- 
time, the shoots on all these branches have been 
carefully stopped, so as to equalise still more the 
tree, and to make them fruitful. A little fruit has 
by this time been taken, but not much. Another 
object is to allow the tree to gather strength, and 
to habituate the sap to these channels, before pro- 
ceeding to form the upper portions, which, being 



70 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



more vertical, are more liable to become too 
strong. 

In the ensuing, or fifth season, the two secon- 
daries (4 and 5), of either wing are now developed 
simultaneously. During the sixth year, the whole 
form is maintained in equilibrium, and the tree has 
now become productive, and vigorous, while the 
branches require much less shortening. In the 
seventh season, the tertiary (6), of either wing is 
developed, which completes this beautiful, and 
simple form. After this nothing is needed but to 
keep the shoots close, and healthy. The weak 
points are at the angles of insertion of the secon- 
daries, where the shoots are more apt to be crowded 
than in the espalier carre ; but this is a defect in- 
evitable in any form partaking of this character, 
as is seen in the case of Seymour's training, and 
other modes. 



The Espalier Carre. 

The leading branches (marked 1), of either wing, 
are first developed, and treated as in the case of 
the Montreuil fan. The second year the first 
lower secondary (marked 2), of either wing, is pro- 
duced. In the third year, the second lower secon- 
dary (3), and in the fourth year, the third lower 
secondary (4), of either wing, are established. 



72 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



The fifth season is devoted to equalising the whole 
form. In the fifth, sixth, and seventh years the 
three upper secondaries are developed, and the up- 
right tertiary (8), of either wing, being also laid in, 
the form is complete. The branches are shortened 
less at every ensuing winter pruning, and the fruit- 
shoots carefully stopped from the second year. 

The weak points of this fine old form are the 
rather large interval between the extremities of 
the secondary branches, amounting to 3 feet. In 
close pruning, with the shoots more shortened-in, 
much wall-space would be wasted, therefore the 
espalier carre (unless with a greater number of 
secondary branches), would not be so suitable. 
But, on the other hand, the angles made by the 
insertion of the secondaries on the leading branches 
are open, and afford much scope for furnishing 
these difficult portions of the tree. The largest 
tree at present in the Lepere gardens extends over 
40 feet of wall, and one eight years old and just 
complete, measures 30 feet in width. These are 
trees of free-growing varieties, such as Grosse 
Mignonne, &c, and superbly cropped. 

Good specimens of waved forms may be seen in 
England and France. In this case it is proper to 
divide the tree into two wings, though with a 
waved central main stem there is little danger of 
the tree being out of balance. In either of these 



THEORY OF LONG PRUNING. 



73 



cases the interval between the branches which are 
laid horizontally, should be about 2 feet. In short? 
excessive shortening of the branches should be 
avoided; all vertical lines should be left till the last 
to be established, and, for the first years, little fruit 
should be expected. When once the tree is well 
formed the branches may be left untouched, and 
the shoots being carefully attended to, the tree will 
bear and grow. In irregular fans with central 
stems, the fruit is comparatively valueless in the 
lower branches, which languish as the sap is at- 
tracted to the upper branches, while the whole 
centre of the tree is apt to become bare and ex- 
posed for the same reason. 

No. 11. — Theory of Long Pruning. 

The object of all pruning is not to increase the 
vigour of the entire tree, but to control and modify 
that vigour, and so accelerate and regulate the 
fruiting period. Pruning, conjointly with appro- 
priate training, claims to be able to add to the 
longevity of fruit trees. This is effected by ba- 
lancing the separate parts. More than this ought 
not to be expected from any system of pruning. 
This, to be successful, must be based on an accu- 
rate knowledge of the habits of each kind, which 
knowledge is the result of observation and expe- 



74 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



rience. It is here that the recorded opinions of 
men eminent in their profession are valuable ; 
for, though the Peach tree adapts itself to many 
varying conditions of culture, there are certain 
principles which should be ever kept in mind. 

Those who have seen the Peach-orchards of 
the south of Europe, and of America, know how 
little care is generally bestowed on them beyond 
manuring the roots. In these favourable climates 
standards three years old are laden with fruit. 
They bear thus, exhaust themselves, and decay, 
without more than a casual attention being paid to 
them. This is culture reduced to its simplest ele- 
ments; but even in such cases experience has 
shown the value of some kind of pruning. This, 
according to Downing, consists in cutting out one- 
half of the shoots of last year's growth. The crop 
is diminished by one -half, but the size of the re- 
mainder is doubled. In the more northern States 
espalier training is in vogue, requiring far more 
care. The attention paid to Peach culture in 
northern and mid-France equals that required in 
England. Superb fruit is grown in America in 
nearly every part, but in France only where 
scientific training is employed ; for the standard- 
grown Peaches of the southern districts are value- 
less. In England, therefore, it is useless to expect 
success without labour and skill, and foreigners do 



THEORY OF LONG PRUNING. 



75 



well to admire the great results produced under 
such difficult conditions. 

No one can now reasonably doubt the immense 
boon which the introduction of orchard-houses 
has been to lovers of the Peach. We who are 
conversant with the best productions of foreign 
climates, know that fruit grown in well-managed 
orchard-houses is literally unequalled ; but to do 
this is not in the power of every one. To simplify, 
then, as much as possible the process of learning 
must be our object; and no system, however 
sound, can be really useful if it be complicated. 
For this reason alone more than one excellent 
teacher has failed. 

Peach culture is not really difficult to practise ; 
it may become so by injudicious treatment. When 
we read the works of the best writers on this sub- 
ject, we cannot fail to see how simple the whole 
process seemed to be to the minds of some of 
them. In several the whole instruction for the 
summer and winter is contained in a dozen lines. 
To keep the roots well drained, to lay in a good 
supply of bearing wood, to remove that which had 
fruited, and not to shorten-in too much, were 
almost the only injunctions given. No indica- 
tions were thought necessary by which the amateur 
could distinguish the various classes of shoots; 
some vague and general directions as to dis- 



76 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



budding were added. It is evident that instruc- 
tions of this brief and general nature presupposed 
a larger acquaintance with the subject than usually 
occurs with amateurs, and, being unaccompanied 
by illustrations, they, though written by first-class 
growers, failed to teach much. On the other hand, 
in such a plain matter as pruning the Peach, it is 
really absurd to attempt to teach it by elaborate 
and complicated rules. Much of the present style 
is of this kind (especially on the Continent), and 
on this account will never be acceptable to English 
gardeners. The excessively long pruning practised 
in the days of our fathers was, however, almost as 
pedantic, and as strange to read of now. Here we 
find the traditional " good supply of young shoots, 
and thinning out the old and unproductive ones as 
soon as they appear naked," &c. Then comes the 
direction to lay in the " shoots of medium size, 
and full of flower-buds, at full length, from two to 
three inches apart." " All forerights and super- 
numeraries to be rubbed off during the summer 
months, as soon as they have reached an inch in 
length." In this case no cluster-spurs could be 
retained; and it is evident that, there being no 
mention of disbudding in this case, the long shoots, 
laid in closely, must have crowded the tree, and 
caused much overgrowth. What the tree must 
have looked like at the winter pruning it is im- 



THEORY OF LONG PRUNING. 



77 



possible to say. Other later writers of eminence 
recommend the shoots to be shortened to fourteen 
inches if strong, and weak shoots to about six. At 
Montreuil about twelve inches in general is the 
rule as to length of shoot. 

The unnatural and needless system of disbudding 
seems to have many advocates in the authors before 
us. Indeed, with one author, it constitutes the 
chief part of his recommendations. To lay in a 
shoot (the length not stated), but evidently at its 
fullest extent, and to disbud it in three times — 
(there is great stress laid upon this number) — to 
leave only the terminal bud, and one at the base 
— (for a replacing shoot) — and to allow one or 
more Peaches to grow on the naked shoot between 
them, is really the whole that is stated. Another 
writer considers disbudding a " most important 
consideration." It will, however, be seen that 
later practice prefers the judicious summer-stop- 
ping of the shoot, whereby the same result is 
obtainable by more simple and natural means. 

The result of such a style of long pruning almost 
always is, that far more wood is grown than is 
wanted. The tree exhausts itself, especially in 
our humid climate, in the production of long un- 
ripened shoots, and the pruner, at the winter 
season, sees before him three times as much wood 
as he requires for fruiting. If he be one of the 



78 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



traditional school, opposed to every change, he 
proceeds to cut out, perhaps, two-thirds of the su- 
perfluous shoots, thereby rendering the tree liable 
to canker, and he has no choice left but to preserve 
the remainder, which, from the confusion and 
crowding of the past summer, are often unfit to 
bear. This may be an extreme case, but when- 
ever a sunless summer occurs any similar system 
must fail. " The cautions," says McEwen, " given 
as to laying-in reserve shoots have done much 
injury ; the vast amount of unnecessary wood laid 
in prevents the proper expansion of the leaves, or 
the action of the sun on the walls. Reserved 
shoots are only 6 reserved' to be cut out, and green 
shoots, soft at the core, are the result, and a prey 
to a thousand diseases. This is smothering the 
tree with superfluous wood." And to the same 
purpose his Editor — " Over-cropping with wood 
is as injurious as over-cropping with fruit; both 
shorten the existence of trees." Much more might 
be added, but it is needless. In short it may be 
taken as certain that the system of long pruning 
tends to produce too much wood ; that such wood 
is not fruitful, not having had its due share of our 
capricious sunshine ; that the amputations of shoots 
and branches, rendered necessary for a " fresh 
supply," are dangerous in the extreme, and that 
the trees are extremely liable to become bare at 



LONG PRUNING 



79 



the centre. If to this be added the injudicious 
forms of trees, and undrained borders, every failure 
seems easy of explanation. 

It remains to suggest some remedy. All late 
experience tends in one direction — closer pruning. 
The results which have been obtained in the 
orchard-house, under very close pruning, serve to 
show that this system, when modified so as to suit 
the exigencies of the open air, contains within it 
the germ of a new style. Could this be made to 
suit, both for trees under glass and for those on 
the open wall, no doubt a great step would thereby 
be made towards uniformity and simplicity. Ten 
years of experiments made on trees in the open 
air have shown that this is possible. 

"The Modern Peach Pruner" does not favour 
long pruning, but as, when properly practised, it 
may be rendered sufficiently successful, the ensuing 
chapter will contain what is considered the best 
method of so doing. The remaining chapters will 
be devoted to close pruning, and especially to de- 
scribing an entirely new system of managing Peach 
trees on the open wall. 

No. 12. — Long Pruning. 

There are various methods of pruning the Peach 
which can be classed under the head of "long;" 



80 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



but it is unnecessary here to illustrate more than 
one, which may be taken as a good specimen of 
this method. It is not more complicated in prac- 
tice than the others, which are founded on the 
annual supply of young branches. 

In this method the shoots spring from spurs 
which are calculated to last several years, and 
which are renewed whenever a new shoot springs 
conveniently from the base of the spur. A good 
succession of young wood is obtainable in this way. 

AH modern experience tends to show that sys- 
tems founded on any considerable annual cutting- 
out of branches, however small those branches, 
must end in causing disease in the Peach tree. 
There is not, in reality, any good reason for this 
dangerous practice, which has already caused so 
much loss ; far from this, the day seems at hand 
when leading branches will not be shortened at 
all, and the chief pruning of the tree will .be effected 
by the summer-stopping of the shoots, allowing a 
comparatively small amount of regulation for the 
winter season. 

When these ideas are fully carried out, the 
difficulty of Peach pruning will become small, and 
theory and practice will agree more fully together. 

It is necessary now to go back a little, and 
remember that our young tree is supposed to have 
made a certain growth, during the summer next 



LONG PRUNING. 



81 



after its being planted. Many pruners, at the 
winter season, shorten this growth made by the 
leading branches by one-third; the reason they 
give is, that the lowest third part of each branch 
frequently fails to develope its buds. This is, how- 
ever, but a visionary fear, if the roots do their 
duty. 




Fig. 11.— THIRD SUMMER PRUNING. 




Fig. 12.— WINTER PRUNING 



The next summer all the branches will extend 
freely, and the buds upon them will begin to de- 
velope themselves. The buds situated on the lowest 
third portion of each leading branch not receiving, 

F 



82 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



especially if placed on the under side, much sap, 
will generally not extend much, and if the season 
be very favourable, some will become converted 
into cluster-spurs (class 5). These must, therefore, 
be retained untouched. Their character is dis- 
cernible by May. Should they extend more freely 
they will pass out of class 5, and become rather 
slender shoots, and should not be stopped at all, 
not being in a position to become gross shoots 
(class 4). The buds situated on the central third 
portion of each branch will extend freely, and be 
the principal fruit-bearers of classes 2 and 3. They 
should be stopped at 12 inches as soon as they 
have made 15 inches of growth, and be lightly tied 
in during the season of growth, at regular inter- 
vals, and at nearly the same angle as the branch. 
The buds situated on the upper third portion of 
the branch should be treated in the same manner ; 
and should any exhibit the appearance of be- 
coming gross shoots, of class 4, they should be cut 
down at once to two eyes, from which one new 
shoot is to be selected (the best placed, and the 
weakest) to fill up the vacant place. This will be 
a shoot of a valueless character, long between the 
joints, and of class 1 ; but it cannot be avoided. 

The extension, or new growth, of each leading 
branch must be allowed to develope freely. Care 
must be taken to guide these branches in the proper 



LONG PRUNING. 



83 



direction, by means of light rods, and none of them 
should ever be lowered into the place it is destined 
eventually to fill, until it be well constituted, and 
in good balance with the corresponding branch of 
the other side. This is done by raising or depress- 
ing, according to circumstances. As no fruit is 
expected at this stage, blossom-buds may be rubbed 
off. Should any of the wood-buds be seen to be 
double, and to put forth two shoots, some little 




Fig. 13. — FOURTH SUMMER PRUNING. 




Yifr. 14. — FOURTH WINTER PRUNING. 
F 2 



84 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

discernment may be required to select the proper 
one, and to do so at the right time. Passing over 
the shoots of the lowest third of each branch, 
which are not troublesome, of those placed higher 
up, the shoots nearest to the wall must be selected, 
and the outer ones removed, whether on the upper 
or lower sides of the branch. But, on the upper 
third portion, which receives abundant sap, all the 
weaker shoots should be selected for fruit-bearers, 
no matter where placed. 

At the winter pruning of this the second year, 
should any cluster-spurs appear, one or two may 
be selected to bear the third season's fruit — that is, 
if it be so desired, because the tree it yet very 
young to bear. All the other shoots should now 
be cut back to two good eyes. The leading 
branches in this style of pruning are now shortened 
by, say, one-fifth. To shorten more would be to 
throw the tree into inconveniently long lateral 
growth, requiring much interval between the 
branches. Of course, this interval varies with the 
style of pruning. Twenty inches is considered a 
moderate interval. 

At the spring of the ensuing, or third season, 
the tree will have acquired certain proportions and 
form, and the shoots shortened last winter to two 
eyes will each speedily develope two new shoots, 
which shoots must now be carefully attended to, 



LONG PRUNING. 



85 



as destined to bear a moderate crop of fruit in the 
fourth season. We come thus to consider the 
branches and shoots as they appear at the third 
season. 

The two shoots during this summer will gra- 
dually assume the appearance indicated in fig. 11. 
They are there named respectively a and b, as 
being the two original shoots proceeding from the 
spur e. If we keep to this nomenclature it will 
avoid confusion. No doubt the term " spur" is 
the most appropriate here, and has been received 
as such before by reviewers of " Cordon training." 
Spur is the correct rendering of the synonymous 
continental word, and it certainly is produced by 
manipulation. Both shoots will be allowed to 
extend to 15 inches, and be stopped back to about 
12 inches. At Montreuil about 14 inches is the 
general rule. 

Many primers abjure summer-stopping alto- 
gether, which is a great error, and the cause of 
overgrowth and weakness in the tree. The winter 
shortening is immense and needless, because it is 
well known that the buds of the lower portion of 
each shoot can be readily distinguished in June, 
and a good guess then made as to their quality. 
If the lower buds be then prominent, and well 
established, what need can there be for any super- 
fluous length of shoot beyond them ? But, let us 



86 ' THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

suppose A and b to make a good summer growth, 
and to have been stopped at 12 inches, as seen in 
fig. 11, and then to have made an additional second 
growth, which is only of use so far as it occupies 
the superabundant sap. During the season they 
will have been secured to the wall, avoiding en- 
closing any leaves, at the proper angle, and if 
weak it is proper to raise them somewhat more. 
At the winter pruning, when the leaves have 
dropped, they will look much like fig. 11. e re- 
presents the original shoot, now called a spur. 

It will now be proper to consider which shoot 
should be preserved long for fruit, and which cut 
back for a replacing shoot. In fig. 12 it is sup- 
posed that b has been found, by reason of its 
groups of triple buds, to be the best, and therefore 
it is cut down to above the second group of triple 
buds. Many pruners, however, would have left it 
half as long again. Some retain thereby space for 
a couple of fruit. This may be done when there 
is generally little fruit on the tree, or if the tree 
have few shoots, a is cut down to two good wood- 
buds for a succession ; the long shoot b is attached 
closely to the wall at rather an acute angle with 
the branch. The spur e continues to preserve its 
original form. These simple operations complete 
the year's work ; great care having been taken, by 
syringing copiously, &c, the leaves during the 



LONG PRUNING. 



87 



summer, so as to keep down insects and favour 
growth. Practical Peach-pruners, such as Mr. 
Radclyffe, continually tell us this. 

At the fourth summer, infiff. 13 we see that the 
original shoots a and b are still the basis of the 
work in hand, a from its two wood-buds puts 
forth two summer shoots c and b, which are like- 
wise stopped at 12 inches, and make a second 
growth, b now bears a fruit at f, and the wood- 
bud accompanying the fruit extends a little, and is 
pinched in at three or four leaves. The terminal 
group sends forth another shoot from its central 
bud, and this is also pinched to three leaves. These 
two small shoots are amply sufficient to attract 
sap to the fruit below them, and this is their use. 
It will be observed that the fruit grows in this case 
on the lowest triple group, which is always the best 
to select. Should the shoot b have been laid in at 
much greater length than here shown, and dis- 
budding the intervening buds be practised (as so 
many do, some leaving only the bud accompanying 
the fruit, and another at the base to suceeed), then 
it can only be considered an unnatural and useless 
custom. Moreover, some of the very best prac- 
tical pruners agree, that it is not proper to depend 
on the same shoot to bear fruit, and to produce a 
replacing-shoot for the next season. It cannot be 
depended on, and requires far more attention in 



88 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

bending the shoot at just the proper time than the 
present plan. If this bending down of the shoot 
is omitted it will be blind the following year. The 
new shoots c and d are treated as before described, 
and if neatly secured to the wall will not present 
any confused or crowded appearance. 

At the fourth winter pruning either of the shoots 
c and d are selected, according to their character. 
Supposing d, the lower shoot, to be selected as the 
fruit-bearer, it is cut above the second or third 
group of buds as before ; c, the upper shoot, then 
becomes that destined to produce the two new 
succession- shoots, and is accordingly cut back to 
two wood-buds. The upper portion of the ori- 
ginal spur e, together with the whole of the shoot 
b, are now cut away as smoothly as possible, 
leaving the whole as it appears in fig. 14. By this 
time one or more buds will have appeared at the 
base of the original spur e, and these if developed 
will form the basis of future work. Should seve- 
ral appear, one at least should be closely pinched 
in, so as to form a cluster-spur, and thereby 
increase the chance of fruit. 

There are several other ways of managing the 
shoots, but none better than this one, nor in reality 
more simple. Some manage to work with alter- 
nate shoots. Others dispense even with this, and 
are content with single ones. Much overlying of 



THEORY OF CLOSE PRUNING. 



89 



shoot and branch and considerable winter amputa- 
tions are the consequences. Long pruning, on the 
whole, wastes the vitality of the tree by producing 
much needless wood. All recent experience points 
to a modification of this system, which shall form 
my next subject. 

No. 13. — Theory of Close Pruning. 

The history of this part of our subject is somewhat 
obscure, and, though interesting in itself, a brief 
notice will suffice. The present style is, no doubt, 
only a revival of what had been touched upon by 
Keith in this country, and De La Quintinie in 
France, nearly at the same time — that is about 150 
years ago. For a certain period no progress seems 
to have been made, though the matter was freely 
discussed in both countries. We may, therefore, 
take the late Mr. Knight, a very competent 
authority, as a fair exponent of closer pruning in 
more recent times. The passage is quoted by 
Mcintosh, and is as follows : — " Instead of taking 
off so large a portion of the young shoots, and 
training-in a few only to a considerable length, as 
is usually done, as I should myself do in every 
favourable situation, I preserve a large number of 
young shoots which are emitted in the early spring 
by the yearling wood, shortening each where 



90 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



necessary by pinching off the succulent points, 
generally to the length of two or three inches. 
Spurs, which lie close to the wall, are thus made, 
upon which numerous blossom-buds form very 
early in the ensuing summer ; and upon which, 
after most unfavourable seasons, and in situations 
so high and cold, that the Peach tree in the most 
favourable seasons had usually produced only a 
few feeble blossoms, I observed as strong and 
vigorous blossoms as I usually have seen in the 
best situations and seasons, and I am quite con- 
fident that had the Peach trees in gardens round 
the metropolis been pruned in the manner above 
described — that is, upon spurs, in the last season — 
abundant and vigorous blossoms would have ap- 
peared in the spring." 

Mr. Knight then proceeds to recommend a 
mixed system of long and close pruning, which, 
when judiciously carried out, is very successful. 
It indeed requires some experience in the selection 
of the proper class of shoot. Mr. Knight seems 
to be disposed, however, not to trust the whole 
crop on spurs formed by close summer pruning. 
In " warm situations," the ordinary long pruning, 
he says, may answer ; but " in cold and late situa- 
tions then try the spur method. A mixture of 
both modes, in every situation, will generally be 
found to multiply the chances of success, and, 



THEORY OF CLOSE PRUNING. 



91 



therefore, neither ought to be exclusively adopted 
nor rejected in any situation." This is sound and 
practical counsel, and comes from an excellent 
authority ; and Mcintosh, alluding to these re- 
marks, says of them, that they are " well worthy 
of the attention of Peach-growers in all situations, 
even in favourable localities, but especially so in 
cold and late ones." 

Since these opinions were published, Peach- 
pruning has considerably advanced, and it is not 
too much to assert that orchard- houses have re- 
volutionised the whole system. A similar change 
seems to be imminent in France and elsewhere. 

In France, especially, close pruning has, at 
present, numerous advocates. Though, as we 
have seen, this system is only a revival, there is no 
doubt that the Imperial Society of Horticulture of 
France is justified, in its report of 1862, in speaking 
as follows : — " We must leave to M. Grin, of 
Chartres, the honour of having at least popularised 
the original idea ; a fact which has the real merit 
of a veritable initiative." Speaking of close 
pruning, Professor Dubreuil says — 44 1 saw in M. 
Grins gardens such excellent results from this 
method, that I hesitate not at present to recommend 
it to the exclusion of every other." In Professor 
Gressent's late work (which has the sanction of 
the Minister of Agriculture and Commerce), it 



92 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

is stated that M. Grin, being convinced of the 
many disadvantages resulting from the old system 
of long pruning, applied himself for a lifetime to 
work out a newer and more profitable way, and 
finished by obtaining a complete success. The 
shoots, he says, being so short, the branches may 
be double in number, and each of the closely- 
pinched-in shoots bears at least as many Peaches 
as the coursonnes de Montreuil. Professor Gressent 
then adds, that the complete success which attended 
M. Grin's labours, caused him much envy and 
resistance in his native country, but that having, 
like M. Dubreuil, visited Chartres, he was so con- 
vinced of the advantages of the new style, that he 
has ever since adopted it. In his work of 1863 
he describes it, and says that he has followed it on 
a very large scale, and introduced some important 
modifications, which, being similar to some tried 
in my own garden, shall be noticed presently. 

M. Grin has laboured under some disadvantage 
in having his ideas first presented to the world in 
the works of others. Though fairly enough de- 
scribed, the actual experience gained is not 
represented, nor his latest ideas, and it is with a 
certain pleasure that I am able to state, that these 
lines are the only authorised exposition of the 
whole system in its latest development, and that 
by them alone the originator wishes English 



THEORY OF CLOSE PRUNING. 



93 



gardeners to learn it. Having myself followed 
the system for ten years, with some success, on the 
open wall (the first occasion on any scale in which 
it has been thus tried in this country), and having 
applied it to the back wall of an orchard-house, 
with diagonal cordons (also a novelty, as described 
in a former work), a certain experience has been 
gained not without value. 

On the practical advantages to be derived from 
close pruning, M. Grin thus speaks — " Whatever 
form may be selected for the trees (his were 
horizontal cordons with a single central stem, and 
single diagonal cordons), first establish well your 
principal branches. On these, by close pruning to 
two leaves, short spurs are formed which bear 
fruits of equal size in every part of the tree year 
after year. It is true that M. Lepere, by a different 
system (long pruning), produces good crops, but 
nine out of ten fail because they do not possess the 
constant practice and special science required for 
such a style of pruning. Some eight or ten suc- 
cessive operations are required in long pruning, all 
requiring an exact appreciation, which does not 
belong to the generality of gardeners. On the 
other hand, close pruning has the immense ad- 
vantages of simplicity and economy of time and 
money. There are no tedious tyings-in of the 
summer or winter wood. The main branches are 



94 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



only ten inches apart (and here let me observe 
that six inches would be better), therefore, without 
a given amount of wall space we can obtain a 
double amount of crop. Lastly, there are few or 
no amputations of important branches, and this 
alone constitutes an appreciable gain, even to 
suppress 6 gourmands' (gross shoots of class 4), or 
to shorten extensions where needed. Every am- 
putation, however well performed, causes a pertur- 
bation in the economy of the tree. Why not 
anticipate the causes which necessitate amputations, 
rather than have the merit of curing them ? Be- 
sides this, even clever gardeners cannot always 
succeed in remedying the evil effects of wounds on 
the tree/' 

The above are the chief reasons given by M. 
Grin for adopting very close pruning or summer- 
stopping of the shoots. In fact there seems no 
reason whatever why a well-furnished main branch 
should ever be shortened at all. If the shoots 
are kept regularly and closely summer-pruned, 
the prolongations of the branches may, with the 
exception of equalising them, be left to them- 
selves. How simple would Peach-pruning be- 
come under these new forms ! Plant the tree 
carefully in a well-chosen and well-drained spot, 
allow it to grow, only balancing it, keep the 
summer wood short, thin out in winter a little; 



THEORY OF CLOSE PRUNING. 



95 



this, with shelter and destroying insects, &c., is 
really all. 

We thus perceive how really simple and easy to 
perform Peach-pruning is. Good pruning should 
not differ much in principle, whether in the open 
air, or under glass. In either case, if we take care 
of the shoots, the branches will take care of them- 
selves. The exigencies of space, of course, require 
that we should direct the growths in the most 
convenient manner; but a branch, 20 feet long 
in the open air, can be made to form a compact 
spiral cordon, occupying little space, round three 
vertical wires, and no style of training is more 
beautiful or more productive. 

To the above cited well-known names, which are 
now connected with the success of close pruning, 
I may add that of Mr. Rivers. Orchard-houses 
have, indeed, done much for the Peach. Their 
multiplication induced corresponding develop- 
ments in training. The great object was, of 
course, to economise the valuable space, and to do 
this close pruning was required ; and, in conse- 
quence, we find the principles of close pruning 
well described in Mr. Rivers's works on the 
management of these houses. There need, there- 
fore, be little doubt as to the solidity of the 
foundation of these truths. As was stated at first, 
the chief object of these papers was to point out 



96 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



the* utility of a system which should serve, with 
obvious changes, both for the house and for the 
open wall, and each succeeding season has proved 
that this is possible. 

No. 14. — The Premature Lateral. 

As some of the most successful growers have 
devoted considerable attention to the proper treat- 
ment of this summer lateral (anticipe of the 
French), it would be improper here to pass it over; 
and, indeed, it constitutes a certain basis in very 
close or in-door pruning whereon to establish much 
after work. In the open air it is also important, as 
helping much to keep the fruit nearer to the wall, 
and closer to the main branch when properly 
treated. The premature lateral springs directly 
from the wood of the year, whenever that wood is 
of a certain strength. The gross shoot (class 4), 
with these summer laterals springing from it, has 
been already depicted. As an extension of a young 
and healthy tree it frequently attains a considerable 
size, and, provided due attention could be given to 
directing and controlling its growth, we should be 
glad to see it ; but the laterals which spring from 
it, when so placed as to receive a great volume 
of ascending sap, are apt to be troublesome to 
manage. The bourgeon anticipe is naively called 



THE PREMATURE LATERAL. 



97 



by M. Grin "the enemy of gardeners, and is either 
of a good or of an evil nature/' In the first case it 
is known by the principal leaf being considerably 
longer and broader than the others. This is when 
it is quite young and manageable, for it very soon 
becomes vigorous, and is then easily recognised by 
its erect habit and darker colour. 

During the months of June and July, especially 
after a favourable May, the growth of the Peach 
is considerable. The tree requires constant atten- 
tion and regulation of the summer shoots, for upon 
the exact performance of this depends the future 
appearance of the tree; but the growth of summer 
laterals, when placed on the upper side of the ex- 
tension, is such, that it is not easy to regulate 
it. The consequence of a neglect is, that the 
strong flow of sap will develope these laterals so 
fast as to carry away the first pair of well-formed 
leaves to a distance of 2 or 3 inches from the 
base in a very short time. This is evidently a 
defect, and if it should occur in many places 
must cause the loss of valuable space, and also 
of radiation of heat. On the other hand, to 
arrest unskilfully the growth of these laterals in 
a young and vigorous tree must check its pro- 
gress and injure it. In the case of an esta- 
blished tree, to remove too great a portion of the 
laterals on the under side of an extension, may 

G 



98 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



end in their drying up entirely by the end of the 
season. 

It requires, therefore, both experience and atten- 
tion to transform these laterals into close-lying and 
at the same time vigorous spurs for future bearing 
and growth. The general habit of the tree oper- 
ated on must also be carefully considered. Some 
sorts of Peaches and Nectarines are naturally of 
weak growth, and such should not be severely 
treated, but be allowed more freedom of growth, 
and to become well established before bearing 
regularly. Indeed the skill and attention required 
to manage successfully these laterals are such that 
Professor Dubreuil says, " This is the only portion 




Eig. 15.— CHECKING PREMATURE LATERAL, 



THE PREMATURE LATERAL. 



99 



of M. Grin's method which really presents any 
difficulty." 

The object which we have in view is to avoid a 
blank space of more than an inch between the first 
pair of full-sized leaves (which Lave the bearing- 
buds with them), and the base of the laterals, for 
the reasons before stated. Passing over other ex- 
pedients to check the growth of a too-vigorous 
lateral on the upper side of an extension, M. Grin's 
method may be recommended here. It consists in 
the suppression of one-third of the two small leaves 
which spring immediately from the base of the 
larger leaf. In fig. 15 these small leaves are 
marked a, and the line of suppression is shown by 
b. This operation is considered to be always suc- 
cessful provided — and here is the only difficulty — 
it be done at the proper moment. This is known 
by the relative sizes of the leaves as seen in the 
engraving. There is no doubt that in the case of 
an orchard-house cordon, which is more easy to 
watch, the sudden arresting of the sap will produce 
two or more buds, which will constitute a good 
basis for next year's work. 

Should, however, the lateral have made its 
growth unchecked, and have carried off in its pro- 
gress the leaves and buds to a distance of several 
inches, we may be induced to try Professor Gres- 
sent's remedy, which he highly recommends, for it 
g 2 



100 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



is easy to perform, and the defect in our tree is 
conspicuous. The object in this instance is to cause 
the production of a cluster-shoot or spur (" May 
cluster") at the base of the offending lateral. He 
proceeds in the following manner. By means of 
a sharp-pointed instrument or lancet he pierces the 
base of the already-developad lateral and the dor- 
mant bud near it, so as to produce a deviation of 
the vessels of the medullary canal, without, how- 
ever, injuring the ligneous formation. The vessels 
being cut, a temporary concentration of the cam- 
bium is induced ; a mass of cellular tissue results, 
and ends in the production of a group of flower- 
buds. By the next spring this group is well con- 
stituted, and the lateral may then be suppressed, 
leaving in its stead a group of buds as delineated 

In fig. 16, a represents the point of section; b, 



E 




Fig. 16. — PIERCING BASE OF LATERAL. 



THE PREMATURE LATERAL. 



101 



is the medullary canal, composed of the primitive 
cellular tissue enclosed within the wall-like form- 
ation of the vascular tissue, c, c ; d is the inner 
epidermis of the green shoot, through which the 
cambium descends ; and e is the thin outer epider- 
mis not yet become hard. The ligneous formation 
is seen between d and c ; and f represents the 
blank portion of the premature lateral. 

The method here described may be tried with 
advantage in certain cases, care being taken not to 
pierce beyond the point indicated. 

I have thus endeavoured to point out how to 
recognise the character of a lateral which seems 
likely to become gross, and shown when and liow 
to arrest its progress. In the next instance a re* 
medy has been pointed out, in the case of a lateral 
having been neglected or overlooked. It remains, 
then, only to describe the treatment of such laterals 
as are of fair growth and promise. In the case of 
maiden or young trees it is good practice not to 
check their growth, but only to direct it a little. 
We shall, however, suppose the tree to be some- 
what established and formed. In this case the 
laterals on the summer extensions may be stopped 
to 6 inches to strengthen the buds at the base, of 
which, at the winter pruning, there will be left 
only two good buds. When these have pushed in 
the following year, in order to induce them to be 



102 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

fruitful, they should be stopped at four leaves as 
soon as they have made six full-sized ones. The 
second growths may be stopped at two leaves more, 
and the third growth may be stopped at one leaf, 
or allowed to extend during the autumn, according 
to the state of the buds at the base. If all go well, 
by August we may confidently expect to find the 
lowest two buds full and well established. Possibly 
another pair besides these may be developed nearer 
to the base of the lateral. The two upper buds 
will have extended, on these the second and third 
growths will have been already stopped respec- 
tively at two leaves, and one leaf as before said. 

It is my practice in this case to allow the tree 
to make some more growth, unless the autumn be 
w r et and sunless ; if, however, the two lowest buds 
of the lateral are not satisfactory, then but very 
little second growth is permitted, and frequently it 
is good practice to cut back below the first stopping, 
and by a new check and concentration of the sap 
and diminution of the shade produced by the 
leaves, to endeavour to ripen these lowest buds. 

Some of the finest fruit is produced in the en- 
suing season on the extensions. When, however, 
the tree bears freely, the laterals should be rather 
devoted to form new spurs for future use, and, if 
possible, they should be transformed into a group 
of two or three shoots. 



THE PREMATURE LATERAL. 103 

In the case of very old trees no rules can be 
given, as these require less severe pruning, and 
vary considerably. 

In fig. 1 7, we have a premature lateral drawn 




Fig. 17.— WINTER PRUNING. 



by myself from nature early in August. The 
leaves are omitted. We notice the pair of buds 
at the very base of this lateral; they are pro- 
minent, dark in colour, and triple, which is not 
always the case. The lateral had been stopped at 
the fourth leaf, when it had made some six full- 
sized leaves, and two these four buds have extended. 
That marked b has been stopped at the second 
growth, and has formed at that point a group of 
flower-buds which would ripen in an orchard- 
house; the other bud, marked c, has also extended, 



104 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



but it has not produced flower-buds. It would 
have grown freely, and so has been stopped at 
about two leaves beyond the first stopping ; and, 
again, for the third time, at one leaf; still it is 
growing, and it is no matter, for our lower buds 
are well constituted. The tree suffered also from 
insects, and will benefit by more growth during 
the rest of the autumn. Probably M. Grin would 
cut back, at the winter pruning, to the first pair of 
buds at the base ; but I have found it well to have 
plenty of shoots to select from. I should, there- 
fore, cut back only to a, above the beautiful triple 
group there. This group having a central leaf- 
bud will be sure to extend. Should any fruit 
appear on this group it might be left on, if so 
desired, and the leaves beyond the fruit reduced to 
two or three. The pair of buds at the base may 
become " May clusters " by this process, which, 
indeed, is the principal aim of very close pruning. 
Nothing can be more successful than the produc- 
tion of this class of shoot, especially in pairs. 
Should, however, these buds at the base extend, 
they will very likely become fruit-bearers of class 
2. As soon as the group at a has borne its fruit, 
it should be completely cut out. By this time the 
eyes at the base will have become strong, and will 
be ready to take the place, in some shape or other, 
of the group removed. At d, we see a group of 



CLOSE PRUNING FOR THE OPEN AIR. 105 

buds on the other side of the extension, e. This 
group will be of service hereafter, probably as a 
May cluster. 

The lateral represented is a fair specimen. 
Others more striking could as easily have been 
shown 5 some which by stopping have forked and 
become double shoots, which can be left at such, 
and others equally useful. Of course, the double 
shoot is nearer perfection, provided it divide very 
near the base. In M. Grin's practice he does not, 
however, attach so much importance to having 
more than one shoot from the same base, but it 
multiplies the chance of fruit, especially in the 
open air. 

No. 15. — Close Pruning for the Open Air. 

Under this term we comprehend both the summer- 
stopping of the shoots, and their winter regulation. 

Although the work for the winter depends 
entirely on the condition of the shoots after their 
summer growth, it is common to see them compa- 
ratively neglected during this important period ; 
consequently, the winter pruning is made to assume 
an undue pre-eminence, which all modern experi- 
ence tends to show to be an error. By reiterated 
close pruning of summer wood, the trees assume 
an appearance which has been termed " cordon," 



106 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



from a resemblance to a thick cord or cable. This 
term applies to trees in any form. Fan-shaped 
trees may be called horizontal cordons. Those 
planted closely together and trained at an angle of 
45°, are styled oblique or diagonal cordons. Trees 
with any number of upright leaders are vertical 
cordons, while those winding gracefully round 
wires, or posts, are spiral cordons. All these are 
formed by the mode of close summer-stopping of 
the shoots. For trees under glass no better or 
more simple plan can be imagined, and our object 
is now to show that there exist no difficulties in 
the way of a similar treatment of trees in the open 
air. The advantages of this method are great. In 
the first place there is a total suppression of the 
summer and winter tying-in of the shoots. This 
alone constitutes an appreciable gain, especially 
during a period when we have so many claims on 
our time. Again, the shoots being closer-lying, 
they require less space between the leading branches, 
and thus there can be more of these. 

Systematic summer-stopping of the shoots affects 
the two-year-old wood more than any other style, 
and tends to produce and maintain, in the case of 
the Peach, those valuable fruit-bearing spurs, which 
produce the finest fruit, and last several seasons 
without much change. In this way we greatly 
multiply our chances of a good crop, for if one 



CLOSE PRUNING FOR THE OPEN AIR. 107 

class of shoot is unripe, that is no reason why the 
shorter and closer-lying class should not be in a 
riper state. Indeed, close pruners of long practice 
will not hesitate to consider these short spurs as of 
first importance in the open air. 

In the orchard-house, trees, several seasons old 
and in good bearing, soon become covered with 
these short fruit-bearers (classed 5 and 7), no 
matter what form the tree is trained under. It 
seems evident that if we can succeed in replacing 
the old long shoot by a group of several short ones, 
each fully as capable (to say the least) of produc- 
tion, that we have materially augmented our 
chances of a good crop. The objection usually 
made, that on these short spurs no well-developed 
leaves can be secured, is not sustained by practice. 
The production of healthy leaves depends far more 
on the state of the roots, and if these leaves are 
kept in a clean and healthy condition, there need 
be no fear of their not elaborating the sap. That 
the principle of close summer-pruning is sound is 
evident from the abundant crops produced, not 
only of Peaches, but also of every other fruit, 
even including standard Grapes ; Vines trained in 
this way may be seen in the public gardens at 
Chartres. For Pears* especially in the open air, 



* The interval between the branches, for Pears, is 8 inches. (M» 
Grin, in the Revue Horticole. Eeb. 1866.) 



108 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

trained as diagonal cordons, it is admirable. Late 
sorts are also best ripened in this way. It might 
be supposed that by repeated summer-stopping of 
the shoots, and their grouping on short spurs, in 
time some inconvenience might be felt by reason 
of their protruding too far from the wall. But 
ten seasons of trial have clearly shown me that this 
is not the case. In the instances where, by neglect 
or some other cause, these shoots have really lost 
the advantage of the wall heat, they have been 
removed, and their loss readily supplied from others 
better placed. 

At the winter season all ill-placed shoots are 
thinned out, though it is evidently better not to 
allow them to grow irregularly during the summer. 
Mistakes or omissions are more easily remedied 
under close pruning, than under long pruning, while, 
in certain cases, we are not debarred from utilising 
any applicable part of the older system. Close 
pruning, in some shape, has been always known, 
but it is only within the last few years that it has 
been reduced to a system. It now includes as its 
advocates many of the first names in horticulture. 
" I accepted it with enthusiam,'' says one eminent 
man, whose work, in 1863, received the French 
Imperial sanction, " because it is normal, and in 
harmony with the laws of vegetation, and of fruc- 
tification," It would be an error to suppose that 



CLOSE PRUNING FOR THE OPEN AIR. 109 



there is but one system of close pruning. That 
originated by M. Grin is by far the most severe 
in its rules. It is, perhaps, on account of this, that 
it has not been generally adopted, and possibly some 
change is necessary to meet the exigencies of our 
different climate. This change is all I have ven- 
tured to suggest, for our climate is not understood 
abroad. 

Partly, also, and for similar reasons, no doubt, 
Professor Gressent in his very recent work, after 
passing the highest encomium upon M. Grin's 
theory, which he acknowledges as the foundation 
of a totally new school of pruning, recommends a 
modification of this system, which is very interest- 
ing. I, therefore, determined to make a trial of 
its merits during the present season, on trees in 
the open air. 

The plan adopted may be stated thus : — The 
eyes (ripe buds) of a bearing branch are disbudded as 
soon as they are about to develope. In each group 
one (the strongest) is left on the lower side of the 
branch, and another (the weakest of each group) 
on the upper side of the branch. All these are 
allowed to grow freely, and when they have reached 
to 6 or 8 inches in length, they are stopped at 
5 or 6 inches, according to the sorts operated on. 
It is necessary to allow every shoot to make the 
growth indicated — that is, at least 6 or 8 inches, 



110 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



before arresting its progress. By this means the 
operation is not done all at one time, which might 
otherwise produce too abrupt a check in the circu- 
lation of the tree, and cause it to lose too much 
sap, thereby inducing subsequent gumming. 

By the time these shoots are thus stopped they 
will have attained a certain woody firmness, and 
we may expect that some of the eyes situated at 
the base of the shoots will become well formed. 
By suspending the vegetation, and concentrating 
the action of the summer sap on these eyes, " either 
the rudiments of flower-buds or May clusters may 
be constituted, but no premature laterals be thrown 
out." 

Soon after this stopping, a second growth is made 
from the extreme bud of the shoot. This new 
growth is allowed to make 8 inches of growth (this 
takes us to about the end of June), then, if at this 
time, the eyes at the base are well constituted, the 
second or new growth is cut back to about half 
way. 

At the winter pruning, the shoot is cut down to 
the second group of triple buds from the base. 
The next season these groups will bear, and the 
effect of this winter close pruning is, that the latent 
buds at the insertion of the shoot develope them- 
selves, and thus form succession shoots. That 
which has borne is now cut out, and afresh short 



CLOSE PRUNING FOR THE OPEN AIR. 11] 

shoot takes its place. All these operations presup- 
pose, of course, that the buds at the base of the 
original shoot were sufficiently developed by the 
effect of the first operations described ; but should 
they appear neither well formed nor prominent, 
the shoot should be cut back below the point where 
it was first pinched several successive times during 
July, so as to concentrate the sap upon the lowest 
buds and form them. This is the part of the method 
which requires the greatest amount of experience 
and attention. Possibly one single cutting back 
may suffice, but with trees of strong growth, or 
badly balanced, some portions might need frequent 
operations. In short, the object being to form and 
strengthen the eyes at the base of the shoot, all 
the attention of the pruner should be directed to 
attain this end. 

All these operations were carefully tried this 
season on my own Peach trees in the open air, and 
no mention having been made of the necessity of 
tying-in the shoots (which in England, at least,- 
would seem to be necessary), it was found that the 
two or three extreme buds of the shoots generally 
sent forth short laterals (owing, in a great measure, 
to their vertical position, they being untied), but 
that the eyes of the lower portions of the shoot 
were well formed. Cutting back beyond the first 
stopping (which stopping was done at 6 inches as 



112 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



soon as 9 inches of growth were made) is a valu- 
able plan, and very useful in regulating the growth 
of the whole side of the tree. 

This modification of close pruning has been 
introduced here for the sake of completing our 
description of the subject, and to show that there 
exists more than one form of the system. It also 
proves the interest excited in the matter, and is 
suggestive in itself of further improvements. 
Being the very latest continental experience it is 
also of value. 

No. 16. — Close Pruning for the Open Air. 

I have now to state the original theory as broached 
about thirty years ago, and carried out up to the 
present date at Chartres. The system has been 
applied exclusively to trees in the open air. 

In the earlier stages of growth, it is a recognised 
principle that the summer-stopping of the shoots 
and their winter regulation should be but small ; 
consisting mainly in merely pinching off the point 
of the growing shoot, and especially in checking 
the advance of any shoot which has a tendency to 
become gross. In this way the tree is kept in 
fair balance. It is thus prepared for the work in 
hand, to be done only when the tree is about to 
bear a little. 



CLOSE PRUNING FOR THE OPEN AIR. 113 

M. Grin says that he commences them by un- 
tying all the leading branches in November. (In 
our climate good judges prefer October.) A se- 
lection of bearing shoots is then made. Those 
situated at the back of the branch are rigorously 
suppressed by being cut clean out. Forerights, on 
the other hand, are preserved. These, under this 
close system, never get too far from the wall's 
heat, and form an essential part of the bearing 
wood. In England they are too often cut out, 
which is an erroneous notion altogether. Of the 
other classes of shoots, those which show the best- 
formed eyes (ripe buds), and which have the best 
promise of wood-buds for succession at their base, 
are carefully chosen to bear the next year's crop. 
These shoots are then, generally, cut back to two 
eyes ; and if the upper eye be the more developed 
and the stronger, it is bisected before it attains any 
length, and is thus arrested for a time. Mean- 
while the lower and the more feebly-constituted 
eye receives all the spring sap, and is prevented 
from languishing. The wood-shoots which spring 
from each spur — and here it is important to mark 
the distinction made on the Continent between a 
spur and a shoot, and also to state that the term 
" spur" refers mainly to the product of manipula- 
tion — are kept as a reserve to be transformed, by 
close summer-pinching to two leaves, into fruit- 

H 



114 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

bearers, as required. On the spurs situated on the 
upper sides of each leading branch, one shoot will 
suffice to bear the next season's crop ; but on the 
spurs situated on the lower sides of the leading 
branches, it is better to leave two shoots. AH 
these shoots are now cut back to two good eyes. 
This constitutes the general winter pruning. 

The first summer operations commence in the 
middle of April, in ordinary seasons; or in the 
beginning of May, in backward years. At this 
time the number of shoots to be left is finally 
settled. As they develope themselves their true 
character is best seen, and our author has taken 
care to have an abundant reserve, which is one 
excellent result of all close pruning — plenty to 
choose from, but no useless growth. Some of 
the shoots vary much in character. " Here, for 
instance," said our author to me, " we have a shoot 
with only a bouquet de mai (cluster spur, Class 5) 
at its base, while all the shoot above this cluster is 
bare for, perhaps, two inches." We therefore prefer 
to cut down the shoot to this single cluster, and we 
know how to make it either bear a wood-shoot or 
fruit. If the former is decided on, w r e shall have 
to bisect all the flower-buds, and then the central 
wood-bud will extend freely, which it otherwise 
would not do. (Here we find bisecting recom- 
mended instead of the too common plan of dis- 



CLOSE PRUNING FOR THE OPEN AIR. 115 

budding. This is a useful hint to orchard-house 
pruners who desire beauty of arrangement.) Should 
a shoot have two of these clusters at its base, then 
it may be cut down to them very closely. It then 
presents an excellent basis for the summer work 
for one of these clusters may have its flower-buds 
bisected to allow the central wood-bud to extend, 
and the other cluster may be permitted to bear 
fruit. (Besides, it generally occurs that, by this 
close keeping-in of these groups, the latent buds 
at the point of insertion on the parent branch 
develope during the summer heat, and thus form 
an excellent reserve. Let us also remark the de- 
pendance placed on shoots of Classes 5 and 7 for 
fruit-bearing. This ought, at least, to teach us, 
that in the orchard-house, with our climate compa- 
ratively at command, these two classes can be 
safely relied on to bear the general crop. Such, 
at least, is my own experience, and on my old 
trees hardly anything but these classes appear. 
This is the end and the result of close pruning.) 
If at the base of a spur the buds seem unusually 
latent, and it is difficult to develope them after one 
season, some even asserting it never to happen, 
then the shoot of the year which springs from that 
spur is shortened-in to one good group of triple 
buds; and at the first May stopping, whatever 
appearance of fruit there may then be is carefully 
h 2 



116 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

suppressed, and the central wood-bud of this group 
is allowed to extend. Thus a new shoot is obtained, 
not so well placed as the others, but still near 
enough to produce. 

The general run of shoots may be said to be 
pinched-in to two well-developed leaves. The 
two or three small leaves which are seen lower 
down on the shoot, having no buds in their axils, 
do not count. This first pinching-in to two leaves 
generally takes place in May, the time being 
regulated, however, by the season and the locality, 
and is done as soon as the shoots have made about 
four inches of growth. The second pinching takes 
place as soon as the second growth, which springs 
from the axils of the two leaves first operated on, 
is about two inches in length, and is described by 
writers treating of M. Grin's system, as leaving 
untouched the first leaf, or even the first pair of 
leaves when they spring together, of the second 
growth — that is to say, that the second pinching 
is to one more leaf. M. Grin, however, repu- 
diates this plan ; and expressly states, that he has 
made many trials, and that if even one leaf be left 
at the second pinching, the second growth being 
vertical, and made at the moment of the strongest 
summer sap, its strength is such that a strong 
shoot is the result, which prejudices the develop- 
ment and maturity of next year's crop. 



CLOSE PRUNING FOR THE OPEN AIR. 117 

"These severe operations have for object to 
suspend, for a time at least, the vegetation of the 
latent eyes, and to hinder their becoming wood- 
shoots. Thus, during a certain time, the whole 
action of the sap is directed to the nourishment of 
the eyes at the base of the spur, so as to strengthen 
them, and to produce cluster spurs in the following 
season." It is also clear that this very close second 
pinching leaves little scope for the production of 
a third growth, also described by the writers in 
question as requiring a fresh pinching-back to 
one # leaf more. 

Be this as it may, my present object is rather 
to show how essentially different this, the original 
theory, was, and has ever continued to be, from 
the old-established forms of long pruning. It is a 
little revolution of itself, has attracted much atten- 
tion, and is gaining ground daily. Not only in the 
case of Peach trees, but to other fruits and vege- 
tables is it applicable. For orchard-houses there 
can be no system equal to it. Carried out with a 
due regard to locality and other circumstances, it 
must prevail eventually and supersede all others. 



* Since the above was written, M. Grin, in the Revue Horticole 
of February, 1866, says, "By the pinching of the two small 
leaves of the nascent shoot (see figure 15), I obtain two leaf- 
buds at the base, and besides this, fruit-buds at the second pair 
of leaves. This is the basis of all good culture." 



118 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



What has been stated in this article comprehends 
the latest development of this system, now a gene- 
ration old, and always advancing without having 
much to retract. As was said before, the author 
desired it to be known at present in this form, and 
some ten years of personal trial have convinced 
me that it is sound and practical. All that I 
should, therefore, venture to suggest would be a 
modified form suited to the wants of our climate, 
which will be the subject of my next commu- 
nication. 

No. 17. — Close Pruning by Alternate Shoots. 

It is probable that the severity of the original 
form of close pruning of the Peach in the open air, 
has presented some obstacle to its general adop- 
tion — at least in this country ; and it must be 
allowed that what is suitable for trees luxuriating 
in the brilliant sunshine of France, and compara- 
tively uninjured by the adverse influences of damp 
and fog, cannot, without the necessary modifica- 
tions suggested by personal experience, be expected 
at once to secure popularity here. To obtain 
public confidence it is necessary that any new 
system practised abroad, under such different con- 
ditions, should also successfully pass through the 
test of a fair trial at home. Its merits can then be 



CLOSE PRUNING BY ALTERNATE SHOOTS. 119 



120 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



proved, and reported on ; and the general public, 
having neither time nor inclination to examine for 
itself, can securely receive this report on the good 
faith of those who are able and willing to attempt 
it. It is not always, it is true, that the time, the 
labour, and the money spent in such trials are 
repaid, but in any case the public is the gainer. 
In examining, then, the merits of the original 
system of close pruning, it may not be out of place 
again to repeat, that at least ten seasons were 
devoted to giving it a fair trial, and to modifying 
it. During this period it was taught by me to 
others, who largely adopted it, and whose gardens 
and orchard-houses (in some cases of no small 
importance) sufficiently attest to the completeness 
and success of the method. 

In considering the original system, we notice, 
at the outset, that the first growth of the year is 
stopped, in the ordinary run of shoots, at two full- 
sized leaves. The result always is, that the buds 
in the axils of these two leaves burst into a rapid 
second growth, which is as suddenly closely sup- 
pressed, and it follows that all the fruit-bucls, and 
also the few intermingled wood-buds, are formed 
at the point of junction of these two growths. 

Though valuable groups are thus produced, 
which, in the dry, sunny, and manageable climate 
of the orchard-house are just what we require, still 



CLOSE PRUNING BY ALTERNATE SHOOTS. 121 

it may fairly be questioned whether the general 
vigour, and necessary progress of the entire tree 
may not be prejudiced by this restraint placed on 
them. In a semi-tropical sunshine, with a dry 
and ripening autumn, and planted in a rich soil, 
Peach-trees would certainly thrive under this very 
close treatment ; but in our uncertain, damp, and 
comparatively sunless atmosphere, the balance be- 
tween the roots and leaves might become unequal. 
It must not, also, be forgotten, that one chief aim 
of M. Grin's system is to produce those two-year- 
old clusters (class 5), which are known to bear the 
finest fruit. When, therefore, several of these 
valuable groups are formed at the base of the 
spur, the upper growths become of secondary im- 
portance. This is essentially orchard-house pru- 
ning, but it does not admit of that scope and large- 
ness of treatment which is required for open-air 
work, especially in England. 

For similar reasons, after many experiments, I 
think that pruning to three leaves as soon as. six 
are formed (which style I advocated in " Cordon 
Training/' published five years ago), although an 
admirable system for trees under glass, is not, on 
the whole, sufficiently long to meet all the acci- 
dents and risks that the Peach has to undergo. 

Pruning to six or eight leaves, provided care 
w r as taken to insure the early formation of the fruit- 



122 THE MODERN PEACH PRTINER. 



buds on the lowest portions of the shoot, by cutting 
back below the point of the first stopping in time, 
as described in No. 15, is a valuable system for 
some localities ; forerights to be closely pinched 
in, and short spurs preserved. This is a mixed 
system ; but I have now no doubt that the safest, 
the most profitable, and the simplest way is to 
make the first summer-stopping of the shoots at 
four leaves, as soon as at least six full- sized leaves 
are developed. These four good leaves will each 
have a bud or buds in their axils, and there is now 
length enough in this shoot to satisfy any pruner ; 
for if these four buds are not to bear, where does 
the long-pruner expect his fruit to be? And if 
they are to bear, what need is there for more 
growth beyond them than is sufficient, as in the 
Vine, to nourish the fruit? 

The first stopping of the shoots, then, is at four 
full-sized leaves. The smaller leaves at the base, 
having no buds now in their axils, do not count. 
Of the four leaves left, some of the upper buds will 
burst into second growths, and the lower ones will 
be constituted. These shoots not being tied in, we 
may suppose that one or two of the upper buds 
will thus burst. If the shoot be on the under side of 
the branch, or on the upper side and tied in, only 
the point-bud will burst. As soon as the second 
growth has made four leaves, it should be reduced to 



CLOSE PRUNING BY ALTERNATE SHOOTS. 123 

two. If, by the time this second stopping to two 
leaves takes place, the lowest buds on the shoot, 
having had most of the sap, appear full, prominent, 
and formed (which one or two seasons' experience 
will enable any one to be a judge of), then let the 
third growth be reduced to one leaf as soon as two 
appear ; and any further autumnal growth may be 
allowed to make several more inches, according 
as it is desired to strengthen the tree, after any 
casualty. If, on the other hand, at the time of 
regulating the second growth, the pruner's expe- 
rience shall have taught him that the lower buds 
are not progressing well, then let him cut below 
the point of junction of the first and of the second 
growths. The object is to concentrate anew the 
summer sap of the lower buds, so as to develope 
them, without causing them absolutely to burst. 
This is almost sure to succeed. Should, however, 
the buds not become formed, then the pruner 
would be justified in cutting right down to the 
lower two buds, because the shoot is of little value, 
and the worst that could then happen would be to 
cause the bud to break, and the shoot would then 
have to be cut in very closely at the winter pruning. 

We suppose that the two upper buds burst. In 
this case the buds at the junction, and those on the 
second growth, are very valuable. In the orchard- 
house these are certain fruit-bearers, and out of 



124 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

doors they may also be generally relied on, being 
formed so early in the season. Tf only the ex- 
treme or point-bud burst, then the lower three will 
give ample chances of fruit. In any case we have 
both the junction-buds and the ordinary triple 
groups of long pruning to depend on, thus uniting 
every chance. 

There should always be at least two shoots on 
each spur. The object is to prune them alter- 
nately, as fruit and wood bearers. One of these, 
the most promising, is left long to bear. It is cut 
above the junction-buds, because, as a rule, we 
must not cut too near to the group which is to 
bear, and at the junction are several wood-buds. 
The other shoot on the spur is cut rather closely 
in, but not so as to sacrifice some well-placed 
groups. It is cut, however, quite near to the point 
whence the new succession shoots are to appear. 

In time a certain number of shoots will spring 
from each spur. Of these we leave the best long 
to bear, and the others are cut in closely for suc- 
cession wood. Of the bearing shoots — say two, 
one is left longer than the other, and, if desired, 
tied in. This is to economise the wall. One shoot 
having two or three good buds is really enough in 
practice to secure succession shoots. In the orchard- 
house we preserve all we can. In the open air 
forerights are preferably removed at the winter 



CLOSE PRUNING BY ALTERNATE SHOOTS. 125 




126 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



pruning, but there need be few, because such 
shoots as show this disposition could be very closely 
stopped to two leaves, and so become short spurs. 

Young trees under this system, should only have 
their first year's shoots equalised at 6 or 8 inches. 
At the first winter's pruning these shoots should 
be cut in to two good eyes, thus forming a short 
shoot, which eventually becomes the spur. The 
next summer each of these two buds puts forth a 
shoot, which is then ready to be manipulated to 
four leaves, to two, and to one leaf. 

Beyond equalising the branches, and directing 
them into the proposed shape, no further shorten- 
ing of the branches takes place. Blank spaces 
are filled in by grafting by herbaceous approach, 
or by budding. 

Under long pruning the leading branches were 
excessively shortened, thus throwing the shoots 
out into corresponding length. The modern style, 
on the contrary, allows the branches to remain at 
full length, merely suppressing any rampant 
growth, and equalising all the parts, while the 
shoots are closely pruned to concentrate the sap 
instead of dispersing it. To closely prune the 
shoots, and, at the same time, reduce the length of 
the leading branches, would be to dwarf the tree ; 
but to allow the growth to take place only where 
it is required, is evidently the natural way. Any 



CLOSE PRUNING BY ALTERNATE SHOOTS. 127 

form of tree flourishes when thus treated, for it is 
a return to first principles. 

Fig. 18 represents the system I have been de- 
scribing. This is the autumn appearance of the 
two shoots springing from the central spur. In 
this figure it is easy to distinguish how the four 
leaves of the first summer-stopping have fared. In 
either shoot only the point-bud has made a second 
growth, which has been stopped to two leaves, and 
a third growth, which has been stopped at one 
more leaf. The junction-buds (where the point- 
bud burst) appear full and healthy. One of them, 
in the right shoot, even shows a disposition to be- 
come a cluster spar. This reveals to us the secret 
of the original theory. The small leaves at the 
base of either shoot are not counted in the four. 
This beautiful specimen was carefully drawn from 
nature, and is a perfect illustration of the theory 
advanced. 

Fig. 19 represents the winter pruning of these 
shoots, a is the original spur, b is the right 
shoot, which has been selected to bear (both shoots 
are, however, perfect) mainly on account of the 
presence of the good buds at the junction f. The 
second growth, e, has been left (this is optional 
here). The left shoot, c, is cut to the lowest group 
of triple buds ; for the central bud of this group, 
being a good wood-bud, will give us a strong new 



H 



128 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

shoot, which will be stopped at four leaves, and be 
kept to bear in its turn. At its base are reserve 
buds which may become cluster spurs, or put 
forth other succession shoots. Any of the three 
good groups left on the shoot, b, may bear the 
fruit. If the highest be selected, its central wood- 
bud should be stopped when it has made two 
leaves, there being abundance of leaves at the 
junction above it. The remaining groups, and, 
perhaps, the latent buds at the base, will now ex- 
tend, and afford the pruner ample scope for his 
skill, c is to bear the fruit now ; therefore, b has 
to provide the succession wood. Besides this, how- 
ever, it is proper to develope one shoot more on 
b, at least, so as to multiply the chance of fruit, 
and so that by the winter, the spur, a, shall have 
three or four shoots of various kinds found on it to 
select from. 

No. 18. — Orchard-house Pruning and 
Training. 

It is evident that this summer-stopping of the 
shoots to four leaves is not only well adapted to 
trees on the open wall, but, as it economises space, 
time, and labour, it is also equally well suited for 
wall trees in orchard-houses. To show that this is 
possible and easy to accomplish in either case, is 



ORCHARD-HOUSE PRUNING AND TRAINING. 129 

one main object of this work. To reduce Peach- 
pruning to its simplest and most natural elements 
is to do away with all the needless and wasteful 
appliances which have hitherto been such hin- 
drances to amateurs. In orchard-houses, especially, 
it is desirable to make use of a system combining 
simplicity of detail with a saving of time and 
physical labour, both of which amateurs have not 
always at their command. 

Considering the immense advance in Peach 
culture which those invaluable structures, orchard- 
houses, have produced, and how many of them are 
chiefly managed by amateurs, it is evident that 
such laborious contrivances as ties, and such need- 
less complications as disbudding (too often insisted 
on, even by excellent primers), must end in 
wearying and disgusting many to whom the 
orchard-house would prove a pure and innocent 
enjoyment. Neither would it be advisable to have 
one method of pruning, close, for in-doors, and 
another, long, for the open air. This would create 
confusion, and hinder progress. It is a mistake to 
suppose that wall trees and espaliers under glass, 
or in the open air, require any substantial difference 
in their mode of treatment. 

The case of potted trees, such as bushes, flat- 
topped or pyramids, presents no greater difficulty. 
The shoots on all bush trees in pots should be 



130 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

stopped at three leaves — i.e., one leaf shorter than 
on more developed forms on walls, as soon as five 
full-sized leaves have been formed. The object is 
to allow the sap to habituate itself to this, its na- 
tural channel, and thus permit the shoot to become 
somewhat hard before it be shortened. The upper 
buds will soon burst forth into a second growth. 
Generally, only the upper two buds will thus burst, 
but, in the case of strong vertical shoots, all three 
may do so. This is no great matter for trees 
under glass, where they are sheltered from atmo- 
spheric changes, and especially saved from any rank 
growth caused by a sunless and rainy summer. In 
the open air it would not be desirable to cause all 
the buds thus to burst, as was the case in the 
original system, because, in cold and humid cli- 
mates, we could not depend on a crop formed 
entirely on the junction buds ; and we thus require, 
in addition, to have a good triple group lower 
down the shoot, which is obtained by pruning to 
four leaves, as before said. In the case, however, 
of bushes, restrained in their growth in pots, and 
under complete control in their root-development, 
pruning to three leaves will be found the best. 

Soon afterwards the second growth will push 
forth, and it will be necessary to arrest it somewhat 
abruptly, so as to concentrate the invaluable spring- 
sap upon the lowest buds for a week or two. This 



ORCHARD-HOUSE PRUNING AND TRAINING. 131 

space of time ought, in the orchard-house, to 
constitute them well. The second growth then 
should be stopped at two leaves, as soon as three 
leaves are formed. 

Stopping the third growth is not very important. 
It may be checked at two leaves if the shoots 
prosper; but should the tree appear generally 
too feeble, arising from undue cropping or from 
attacks of insects, it would be best to allow the 
third growth to extend in proportion. The pruner 
will soon know when to check and when to allow 
growth. It is also evident that the shoots on the 
lower portions of the bush trees, and especially 
under the branches, will not be so vigorous as those 
near the extremities, which receive so much sap, 
and are so much nearer to the glass; therefore, on 
these lower parts, the pruner will expect only 
cluster spurs, which must not be touched, and, in 
the central portions, barren spray. This last dis- 
agreeable type of shoot should be removed 
whenever possible. It is considered by some as a 
proof of degeneration in the tree ; by others it is 
considered as able to bear. It cannot, however^ 
be utilised, having no terminal leaf bud, which it 
is necessary for every class of shoot left to have. 
Shoots well placed on the lower portions of bush 
trees, if not crowding towards the centre, which 
should always be left open to the sun and air, are 
i 2 



132 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



very valuable, and should be carefully looked after. 
In lofty houses, however, from the tendency of the 
sap to ascend, the lower portions of bush trees of 
a certain age and size cannot be depended on. 
All Peach growers agree that fruit on the lower 
branches is not of the best quality. The shoots, 
therefore, placed low down, must be as well ex- 
posed to the sun as possible. Bush trees in low 
houses, having their centres well exposed, ought, 




Fig. 20. — COMMON ORCHARD-HOUSE SHOOTS. 



ORCHARD-HOUSE PRUNING AND TRAINING. 133 

nowever, to produce fair crops. Advantage should 
be taken of shoots springing low down to remodel 
the tree, and, of course, these shoots must not be 
pruned. 

Bushes appear to most advantage when sym- 
metrical and well balanced. Training en gobelet r 
or U-shaped, allows a large number of leading 
branches to spring as low down from one central 
main stem as is practically useful. Another ex- 
cellent form is to develope three strong branches, 
and, when these have reached to about 12 inches, 
to group on each a sufficient number of lateral 
branches, so as to form a good circle. From these 
lateral branches other vertical ones may be carried 
upwards. Several seasons being required for this 
form, the tree is kept well under command. 

Flat-topped trees in pots form a valuable class. 
Slightly pendulous, which is natural to some 
Peaches, they bear fine fruit. Intermingled with 
bush trees, they allow these last more lateral scope, 
and they suit the loftier portions of the house. The 
pruning of their shoots is similar to that of bushes. 
The only difference consists in keeping down those 
shoots inclined to be vertical, and in watching to 
cut out gross shoots. 

Pyramidal trees in pots are the trees most under 
command. They should not be carried very high ; 
about six or eight feet is the most manageable 



134 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



height. The lower parts are always apt to lan- 
guish. As the object is also to form these portions, 
the first pruning of the shoots, on the upper third 
of the pyramid, might be to three leaves, the middle 
third might be allowed one leaf more, and the 
lowest third be pruned to five leaves. The second 
stopping, in all cases, should be more abrupt, and 
be at two more leaves of the second growth. The 
point of the pyramid should never greatly pre- 
dominate. All this pruning is easy to accomplish, 
and the summer and winter work can be done with 
a pair of scissors, kept as sharp as possible. This 




ORCHARD-HOUSE PRUNING AND TRAINING. 135 

Is much the best way of shortening such close- 
lying shoots. Old-fashioned primers will not 
readily abjure the use of the fatal knife, which is 
only useful to trim those larger branches which 
must sometimes be sawn away. When this is 
done let the pruner remove the branch entirely, 
and quite close to the part left. With this excep- 
tion, a pair of scissors kept very sharp, and about 
four inches long, have served for the whole of my 
trees of every kind for years, both in-doors and in 
the open air. 

In figs. 20 and 21 we have three types of shoots 
which are most common on bush trees, after being 
several seasons in pots. They are taken from 
photographs. In either of them we readily recog- 
nise the shorter shoot, a certain fruit-bearer in the 
orchard-house, class 5. In fig. 20 we have, besides, 
the shoot called fruit spray, class 7. This is also a 
common and productive type, having single fruit- 
buds and a terminal leaf-bud. It is common on 
old trees to see whole branches, whose office seems 
only to be to carry these fruit-bearers, which must 
not be pruned. Fig. 21 is given mainly to show 
the short and beautiful shoot of class 2, fruit shoot 
properly so called. In long pruning this is the 
mainstay of the system. It is rarely seen so short 
out of doors, but being photographed from the 
Stanwick Nectarine, which is a very strong-growing 



136 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

tree, it seems like fruit spray passing into another 
type, through the vigour of the sap. In all these 
specimens the pruner will notice with pleasure 
that there is a terminal leaf-bud, and also a good 
bud well placed low down the shoot, so that it is 
easy to secure new wood for next season without 
extending the shoot too much. This is the very 
closest style of pruning possible in the Peach. 

No. 19. — Orchard-House Pruning and 
Training. 

Among the various beautiful forms suggested by 
cordon training none is superior to the spiral 
cordon. This style is excellent in every way, pro- 
ductive, manageable, and elegant in appearance. 
Visitors invariably prefer it, and during the blos- 
soming period it shows to the best advantage in 
the whole house. 

There are various ways of forming the spiral 
cordon. Two trees, equidistant, may be planted 
in the border, and curled round wires or rods as 
desired. The diameter of the spiral need not ex- 
ceed 15 inches, and at this interval there is no fear 
of crowding the spurs and shoots. A Peach and 
a Nectarine tree look very well together thus 
placed. Round the pillars of an orchard-house is 
the most natural position for a spiral cordon. I 



ORCHARD-HOUSE PRUNING AND TRAINING. 137 

have, however, thought of late to place five trees 
together, equidistant, in the border of the house, 
and to coil these, at regular intervals of 12 inches, 
round five upright wooden rods firmly fixed in the 
ground. These five posts are connected at the top 
by a stout iron hoop. In this case the diameter of 
the spiral should be greater, and be about 2| feet. 
This plan will be found very advantageous for 
utilising the central borders of the house. Light 
and air are freely admitted within the spiral, and 
every part bears well. Indeed, the form seems so 
natural to the trees that the spurs on them are 
unusually strong. The continuous ascending curve 
favours the development of the tree, while it en- 
courages healthy shoots all round. Sometimes the 
ends of the spiral cordons are allowed to run along 
the rafters, or they might be slightly pendulous, to 
check any rank growth ; but of this last there is 
little fear. Cordon trees in full bearing are never 
over-luxuriant, but rather the reverse : therefore we 
should encourage them to grow rather than dwarf 
them. Trees thus trained never require lifting nor 
root-pruning, which is a great saving of labour. 

The shoots of spiral cordons may be treated as 
those of bush trees, and be stopped at three leaves, 
if the intervals between the twist be 12 inches. 
Second growths should be stopped as usual at two 
leaves. 



138 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

There is no reason why Apricots and Plums 
should not form handsome spiral cordons. Cherries 
might produce too much wood. 

For the back wall of any lean-to no method 
equals the diagonal cordon. If the house is low, 
say about 9 feet high, then no very strong trees 
should be thus trained, and those of moderate 
growth would require the double or triple cordon. 
For houses with 1 feet of back wall single cor- 
dons of moderately vigorous kinds would suit. 
Twelve or thirteen feet of back wall is the best 
height for single cordons. They will not be long- 
in reaching the top, and when there there is no 
trouble in keeping them close. Very strong sorts, 
such as the Stanwick, may be double cordons on 
such a wall ; but there is no doubt that the single 
cordon is the easier to form. 

The distance between the trees, counting from stem 
to stem, varies according to the style of treatment. 
If flat cordons, with the shoots rather closely kept, 
be decided on, then 12 inches from stem to stem 
will suffice, and there is no practical difficulty in 
keeping the spurs and shoots within these limits, 
as the amateurs, now rapidly increasing in number, 
who have adopted this style, will testify. 

Trees grow naturally towards the sunlight, and 
thus produce, if allowed, numerous forerights. 
Out of doors we should soon lose the benefit of 



ORCHARD-HOUSE PRUNING AND TRAINING. 139 

the wall radiation and shelter if these were not 
restrained ; but in orchard-houses this is not the 
case. There, forerights are the rule rather than 
the exception. Flat diagonal cordons, then, are 
easy of formation, and can be trained without any 
more difficulty than fan-shaped cordons. Of late 

1 have gradually been led to adopt a larger form 
of the diagonal. In the new house just planted 
the trees are placed as single cordons, being old 
trees transplanted, and the oldest in England of 
this form, against a 13-feet back wall, at intervals 
of 15 inches. All the roots were found to have 
been produced in a forward direction, towards the 
light, and thus no difficulty arose in planting or 
transplanting from lateral development, as we 
expected. These trees have straight stems about 

2 inches thick, and the spurs on them are generally 
half an inch in thickness. On these spurs are from 
six to ten shoots, which project forward, and are 
sometimes spread out symmetrically by ties. 
These large spurs and shoots require but little 
winter pruning, as most of the shoots on them are 
of classes 5 and 7. They look exactly like a small 
bush tree grown in an eight-inch pot, and could 
bear nearly as well. In replanting these trees the 
lower portion of each alternate one is now made to 
project about 12 inches from the wall, the re- 
mainder lying close to it. The object of this is to 



140 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



acquire more space for the roots, while the shoots 
on the lower third of the tree thus advanced will 
be allowed to grow all round, as in pyramidal 
cordons. Thus the space gained by advancing the 
alternate trees will be utilised, and the tree be 
allowed to make more wood at that part which 
most requires it. At about five feet from the 
ground the stem is allowed to touch the wall, and 
is trained, like the others, close to it. The angle 
of inclination of all is only about 6°, as the trees 
are now full grown and established. To distinguish 
them from the usual flat diagonals, I have named 
them " diagonals with pyramidal bases." 

The advantages of diagonal training may be 
briefly summed up as follows : — The trees come 
sooner into bearing, which is only to be expected, 
as each tree lies at the natural angle made by a 
branch with the parent stem ; the wall is sooner 
covered than by any other mode ; many varieties 
can be grown side by side, and those not found 
good replaced ; a succession is obtained from the 
same wall, which is a great object in small houses 
or gardens ; the produce is large ; the training is 
not more difficult than is the case with other 
forms; and the trees are very readily untied to 
cleanse the wall — also a matter of importance. 

There is little doubt that, when better known, 
this form for the back wall will become common. 



ORCHARD-HOUSE PRUNING AND TRAINING. 141 

Mr. Richard Clay, of Hampton Court, has had the 
happy idea of largely adopting this method for his 
large span-roofed house, 160 feet long by 16 high, 
and of great width. In this house there are six 
rows of diagonal cordons, trained parallel to the 
length of the house on wires at an angle of 45°, 
with shoots on both sides. The produce of this 
new house is already very great. 

For the open air it may be questioned if, in this 
climate, the diagonal is sufficiently large of form, 
and therefore suitable, although it succeeds in 
France. It is, however, strange that it is not more 
adopted for Pears, Apples, and Plums on the open 
wall, where a large variety and a succession of fruit 
is desired, and the walls are more than 11 feet 
high. Cherries are rather rebellious under this 
form. Plums do very well, requiring, however, 
the triple cordon ; very strong-growing sorts might 
not suit. For choice Apples, however, and es- 
pecially for Pears, there is no question of the 
advantages to be derived from this simple and 
natural mode of training. It is much adopted 
on the Continent, and will gradually make its way 
here : not, however, that English gardeners need 
this teaching. I believe I may say that Mr. 
Pearson thinks highly of this form, and I know 
that Mr. Rivers does. 

The easiest method of forming a diagonal cordon 



142 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

is as follows : — A well-drained trench, 2 or 3 feet 
wide, and about 1 foot deep, is made along the 
wall of the house. Healthy and vigorous young 
Peach and Nectarine trees are then laid against 
the back wall, at intervals of 12 inches if for the 
double and triple cordons, in case the walls be low, 
and at 15 inches if for the larger-developed form, 
described above as single cordons. The trees 
should have healthy buds and shoots all along their 
length, no vacant spaces from accident or other- 
wise. The first year they may be upright, or at 
the angle of 70°, according to their vigour. The 
second year, if prosperous, they may be lowered to 
45°, there to remain. In the first winter of plant- 
ing about one-quarter of the tree may be cut off, 
always to a front bud, as thereby the future growth 
presents less deformity at the point of junction. 
Wires or trellises placed at angle of 45° much 
facilitate the training, as the object is to have the 
stems as straight as possible. If placed otherwise, 
guiding-rods for the young wood will be necessary, 
with frequent ties — say at every 6 inches. The 
trees will largely benefit by no fruit being taken 
from them till they are three years old, and then 
only one or two specimens. There is no loss of 
time, as these trees can now be had 6 feet long at 
Mr. Rivers', and by resting them one year they will 
bear every succeeding season, lasting the usual time 



ORCHARD-HOUSE PRUNING AND TRAINING. 143 

of any such trees. After the first winter's heading- 
down, no further shortening of the trees is needed. 
Provided the shoots and roots are then well looked 
after, the leader or leaders may be left alone. 
Accidents may be remedied by grafting by herba- 
ceous approach, an easy and certain way. 

The next form of cordon which I shall notice is 
the lateral cordon. This is best described by Mr. 
Rivers in speaking of the ground vinery, which is 
also admirably adapted for the close cordon training 
of Peaches. " There are no cross bars, but merely 
a frame ; in the top bar is a groove half an inch 
deep ; in the bottom bar a groove a quarter of an 
inch deep ; in the bars at each end are grooves 
half an inch deep. The pieces of strong 21 -oz. 
glass, which should be cut so as to fit, are pushed 
into the upper groove, and let fall into the lower 
one. The two end pieces of glass are then pushed 
inwards, so as to bring the pieces close 
together. A little putty at the lower bar keeps 
water out, and a little is also applied to the end 
pieces, so as to prevent lateral motion. The width 
of such a span-roofed frame should be 3 feet at 
base ; 20 inches of height to the ridge ; slope in 
all, 24 inches." In such a structure two Peach 
trees laid horizontally side by side, and raised on 
rods or wires sufficiently to keep them free, would 
produce the finest fruit. In lengths of 7 feet, only 



144 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

one at each end being* closed, these structures are 
easy to manage, and would be very economical. 
It is easy to see how only close pruning, as de- 
scribed, could be practised in such cases. 

An adaptation of these principles, wherever the 
front walls of an orchard-house were available, 
would be to take one-half of the span of this 
" ground peachery," which would give a light 7 
feet long by 2 broad. Some bricks or perforated 
planks, placed 30 inches from the wall of the 
house, form a rest for the lower edge of the light, 
and afford low ventilation, which is also secured 
by an interval of 2 or 3 inches being left between 
the upper edge of the light and the wall of the 
house. Tiles or slates make the best floor for such 
miniature lean-to houses. It is easy to place hinges 
so as to open them, and they should be secured 
from high winds lifting them. Mr. Rivers wrote 
to me very recently, "It will be a hard fight 
between these low lateral cordons and diagonals as 
to produce. 5 ' No doubt of it ; and if the back wall 
of the house and the low front be thus utilised, it 
is difficult to conceive how they could be better 
employed. The roots should be placed on a well- 
drained spot, and the shoots of these lateral cordons 
stopped at three leaves as soon as five are produced, 
and second growth at two leaves as soon as three 
or four are developed. 



ORCHARD-HOUSE PRUNING AND TRAINING. 145 



No. 20. — Orchard House Pruning and 
Training. 

Bush trees in pots have apparently the advantage 
of being easy of formation ; but though readily 
kept in shape for a season or two after potting, 
they are apt to be thrown out of a true balance by 
any strong vertical shoot which maybe overlooked. 
It is, therefore, on the whole, safer to induce the 
bush tree to assume some more regular shape, such 
as the pyramidal. In this case we may, by extra 
width at the base, cause the tree to look much like 
an ordinary bush, whilst we retain the advantage 
of having a main central stem, from which the 
branches can be more symmetrically developed, 
than if the tree divided into two or three strong 
branches at the outset. By keeping the top of 
this low pyramid very little in advance, and allow- 
ing the base to extend freely beyond the pot, this 
form assumes an aspect different from the loft/ 
pyramid, with its comparatively slender base. 

When, however, the bush form is retained, it is 
imperatively necessary to keep the centre open to 
the influence of sunshine and air. In this case, 
also, regularity of form is not only more pleasing 
to the eye, but conduces to the duration as well as 
to the productiveness of the tree. It is necessary 

K 



146 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

generally, to put down the leading branches so as 
to induce the tree to form the U or goblet shape, 
and also to keep the branches at proper intervals, 
by means of slender rods. One season of neglect 
is enough to spoil the whole appearance of any 
bush tree ; indeed, it is rare we see any very hand- 
some specimens after a certain age. Half standards 
are much easier to keep in form. 

Generally speaking, after a maiden tree has been 
headed down to six or seven buds (an odd number 
being preferable), the shoots proceeding from these 
buds should be trained carefully from the outset, 
and regularly stopped to equalise their growth. 
Should the tree not put forth a sufficient number 
of shoots, cut off the ends of those formed early 
in June, and from their points second growths will 
spring, from which the requisite number can be 
selected to shape the tree. This is for ordinary 
bushes ; possibly for U-shaped trees where the 
shoots are strong, it would be preferable to cut 
them back in May, so as to induce them to fork 
lower down. The equalising of the whole form is 
to be continually attended to by stopping any shoot 
which protrudes. By cutting to a bud which 
points outwards, the centre is kept more open in any 
case. Any laterals, later in the season, on the 
upper portions, can be slightly equalised as shown 
in No. 14- 



ORCHARD-HOUSE PRUNING AND TRAINING. 147 

At the October pruning the tree is formed, ac- 
cording to the shape decided on. Goblet-shaped 
trees, with long vertically inclined shoots — i. e. y 
branches in future, should have these left longer, 
and not much shortened-in. Perhaps one-fourth 
is sufficient, generally speaking, to suppress now. 
A few laterals may thus be retained within these 
dimensions, and these should be cut-in to two buds. 
Low pyramids will have to be cut back to a con- 
venient group of triple buds, or to some single 
wood-bud looking outwards. Tall pyramids are 
treated in much the same way. The first winter 
regulation is important for the beauty -of the tree. 
In pyramids our greatest attention is needed to 
establish the lower portions from the commence- 
ment, and never to allow these to languish, nor 
to bear too early. 

During the ensuing summer the side shoots are 
to be stopped at three leaves, &c, as before directed 
in No. 1 8,for potted trees. If the summer-stopping 
of this, the second season of the tree being in u 
pot, has been regularly done at the winter regula- 
tion, the tree will begin to assume a certain definite 
shape, and the pruner will be less puzzled than in 
dealing with more irregular forms, 

It is always better to avoid cutting down potted 
trees, and rather to rest them for a season, by re- 
moving the fruit and remodelling them. When- 
k 2 



148 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



ever, however, a tree resists this care, it will be 
found that it suffers from some serious cause. The 
roots should be carefully examined, and if un- 
healthy, the tree should be at once removed, and 
another young one brought forward from the 
reserved stock. A few trees thus reserved will 
save much annoyance. Overcrowding is a fertile 
cause of the trees becoming shapeless and unpro- 
ductive. In general, also, sufficient attention is 
not given to selecting handsome and regular shapes 
for potted trees. 

The advice of some experienced person is of 
great use in the disposition of the trees in an 
orchard-house. The variety of forms and climates 
precludes any general rule in this matter, and 
doubtless, we have all very much to learn in this 
respect. We have started from a good and tried 
basis, however, and may experimentalise without 
serious risk. The mere beginner, however, had 
better be cautious, and secure the soundest advice 
within his reach ; at least, in such important points 
as the best shape and situation for his new house, 
and the selection, and disposition of the trees 
within it. 

If the summer-stopping of the shoots be both 
easy to describe and to perform, the same cannot 
be said of the winter pruning In this case there 
is no better way than to have recourse to our classi- 



ORCHARD-HOUSE PRUNING AND TRAINING. 149 

fication of the Peach shoots, and to state in what 
respect the winter pruning of each differs. 

Peach trees in pots are stopped at three leaves, 
as soon as five are formed ; and second growths at 
two leaves, as soon as three are formed ; third 
growths generally to one more leaf, unless autumn 
growth be desirable to relieve the tree. (See No. 
18.) In the open air, however, the first summer- 
stopping is made at four good leaves, as soon as 
six are developed ; and second growths are stopped 
at two leaves, as soon as four more are grown. This 
gives us more freedom and secures junction-buds, 
and also the triple groups below them. This is 
described in No. 17. 

This style of stopping to four leaves is also the 
best for diagonal cordons, on the back walls of 
orchard-houses, when single, and, therefore, at 
about 15 inches interval. If planted at 12 inches 
interval between the leaders (being double or 
triple), then stopping to 3 inches maybe advisable. 
Even then, in many cases, four leaves may be 16ft 
with advantage, especially at the base. We have 
thus one single system of summer- stopping adapted 
to orchard-houses, and to trees on the open wall. 
It will now be seen, also, that the winter regulation 
of the shoots can be conducted without any more 
distinction between house and open wall. 

Recurring, then, to the classification of the 



150 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



shoots, it may be laid down as a fixed rule, 
that classes 5, 6, and 7, should never be touched 
at the winter pruning. Class 5, or the cluster- 
spur, is a perfect type, able to bear and also to 
extend by means of its central leaf-bud. It is 
found in abundance on trees in pots, and on all 
kinds of cordons on walls. It is the mainstay 
of the close pruning system. Figs 5, 20, and 
21, in support of this view, are photographed. 
On the shoots of diagonal cordons of a certain 
age, this class is most common. In fig 22, all 
marked b, are cluster-spurs, or "bouquets de Mai," 
as the French call them. Class 6, is the same spur 
after bearing. (See fig. 6, No. 9.) A little prac- 
tice will enable the pruner to recognise it, and as 
it is short and has a terminal leaf-bud, it must be 
left untouched now, so as to make a new shoot 
during the summer. Of course, all below this 
growth will be bare for ever, but this is not of much 
consequence, as is evident in fig. 22, where c shows 
its relative length and position. Class 7, or fruit- 
spray, is also a valuable type of shoot, very common 
in close pruning. In fig. 7 (No. 9), and in fig. 22, 
where it is marked a, we have examples of this 
class. In fig. 20 (No. 18), it is also seen, the en- 
graving being taken from a photograph ; it has a 
terminal leaf-bud, and can bear, having single 
blossom-buds. If it had no wood-bud close to its 



ORCHARD- HOUSE PRUNING AND TRAINING. 151 



base, it might not be so useful, but it generally has. 
Whenever, however, it occurs in the centre of bush 
trees in pots, it will then be found to be too long 
and liable to become straggling ; in fact, too like 
Class 8. It may, but only in this case, be cut out, 
otherwise when it occurs in close pruning it should 
be retained as much as possible. 

Class 8, fig. 8, is barren spray, or " chiffon," 
as Dubreuil calls it, an unsatisfactory class of 
shoot, which had better be suppressed whenever 
no great gap is caused thereby. Bush trees in 
pots are frequently ruined by such shoots, and 
they indicate neglect of summer-stopping, or weak- 
ness of the tree from want of air, Sec. This type 
has single blossom-buds, but no terminal leaf- buds, 
hence its name. 

Class 2, fig. 2, fruit shoot of the ordinary cha- 
racter. In long pruning it is seen of almost 
any length; but in close pruning the beautiful 
shoot shown in fig. 21 is what we should prefer 
to see. In this case, being only about from 4 to 
6 inches in length, we may allow it to remain un- 
touched at the winter pruning, and cut it close in to 
the one or two wood-buds seen at its base, after it 
has produced fruit. When longer it then becomes 
useful to form a new branch, and thus ceases to 
have the distinctive character of the shoot seen in 
fig. 21. Class 3, or the mixed shoot, is also 



152 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

common in young trees, and useful to shape them. 
Whenever, then, either of these types occur as ex- 
tensions of any form of tree, they should not be 
shortened after the first year or so. In close 
pruning we soon cease to think of them as shoots, 
and rather incline to regard them as useful to bear 
the shorter ones only. 

Class 1, fig. 1, pare wood-shoot. Naturally 
inclined to grow long, and having a few feeble 
blossom-buds at its extremity. Seen in young 
trees, and also in the extensions of older forms, 
and only useful in this respect, as laying the 
foundation of riper wood. 

Class 4, fig. 4, the gross shoot, or "gour- 
mand" of the French. A vigorous development 
of Class 1. Useful to form young trees quickly, 
but to be carefully watched in older forms lest 
the tree be thrown out of balance. As the 
main stem of a healthy pyramid in the border, 
or in the case of a fan-shaped tree on the wall, 
where it is preferred not to divide the tree into two 
wings, much progress is made by it. It is readily 
known by its darker colour, the smallness of the 
leaf-buds, and the premature laterals thrown out 
at the upper portions. In close pruning, however, 
all these naturally long shoots become, practically, 
only useful to form the tree, while the naturally 
shorter shoots are retained to bear the fruit. By 



ORCHARD-HOUSE PRUNING AND TRAINING. 153 

allowing the branches to remain at full length after 
the first or second season, and by the close summer- 
stopping of the shoots, we increase this distinctive 
character, and thus return to first principles. 

Although more regular forms are desirable, there 
is no reason why irregular fan-shaped trees should 
not bear well, when closely pruned. In some cases 
this form may be even the best adapted, and, no 
doubt, much advantage is gained by having a bien- 
nial supply of young and healthy wood. Gaps 
made by unskilful pruners may thus be filled up. 
Fig. 22, however, clearly shows how it is possible 
to have regularly disposed branches, and, at the 
same time to preserve the spurs on them for 
many seasons, without recourse to amputations or 
fresh wood. In this specimen, drawn from nature 
from a diagonal cordon about ten years old, it is 
evident that the double spur is as old as the parent 
tree, and this without being more than a few inches 
in length or half an inch in diameter. The left 
spur bears the marks of numerous suppressions* of 
former shoots. It retains two of these three or 
four seasons old, and only respectively 1 inch and 
2 inches long. On the upper one are the cluster 
spur b and the fruit spray a ; on the lower one is 
another cluster b, and this same type after bearing, 
c. Springing from the very base is a pure wood- 
shoot d, which has been cut back to two wood-buds 



154 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

to form*succession shoots. The spur on the right 
is not so thick as its fellow, but also shows marks 



< 




Fig. 22. — DOUBLE SPUR TE2T YEARS OLD. 



ORCHARD-HOUSE PRUNING AND TRAINING. 155 

of work. It bears three fruit sprays a, and four 
cluster spurs b. Also at its base we find a shoot 
having groups of triple buds (class 2), and cut back 
above the lowest of these groups. This shoot is cut 
back for the same purpose as that marked d 5 and 
is itself marked e. It is, therefore, quite evident 
that the whole of the two aged spurs might be cut 
off after bearing, leaving some four or five new 
shoots springing from d and e. These spurs and 
their beautiful fruit-bearing shoots thus seen, are 
really a triumph of close pruning. No one can 
reasonably doubt that there is a promise of abundant 
fruit here, lying close to the wall, and produced 
by a type allowed to be that which bears the very 
largest Peaches. It would not be at all necessary 
to remove these fine old spurs, as the shoots on 
them will not become very long for some time, so 
that the " modern close pruner" is never embar- 
rassed by any want of material to select from. 
His great aim must be to endeavour to prune the 
shoots on the "alternate system/' seen in figs'. 18 
and 19, which, duly attended to, will, after many 
seasons, produce specimens resembling^. 22. 

It remains only to add that fig. 23 represents the 
plan of formation of the wall of diagonal cordons. 
As my good friend Mr. Rivers has lately erected 
a house which he justly estimates as likely, from 
its immense proposed length and novelty of de- 



ORCHARD-HOUSE PRUNING AND TRAINING. 157 

sign, to prove " one of the sights of Europe," and 
as the back wall of this house is devoted to diagonal 
cordons, perhaps this design may be useful, a re- 
presents the angle of a diagonal cordon against the 
wall. It might be even lower, a would be a 
single cordon without the addition of leader b, 
which will make it a double diagonal cordon, c 
is a short branch to fill up an interval ; not very- 
necessary, nor very productive, d is an upright 
cordon from which leaders are taken to fill up the 
wall space at one end, while e shows how the other 
end should be finished. If the horizontal portion 
of e were first well established, the leaders could be 
readily developed from it. It is also of importance 
in forming the double or triple cordon to keep back 
the second leader about half-way the length of the 
first, otherwise the second leader w r ould, from its 
vertical position, absorb too much sap ; in other 
words, establish the first leader well before the 
others are formed. 

The late and lamented Dr. Lindley, in reviewing 
" Cordon training," objected to the sharp angle 
made at b, as shown in the frontispiece of that 
work. It is now remedied ; but in actual practice it 
never was so severe. Otherwise, he thought well 
of this system, and it is now presented under an 
improved aspect, the result of five more seasons of 
experience. 



158 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



21. — Variations of Peaches and Nectarines 
prom Seed. 

(From the Fruit Record of Sawbridgeworth.) 

The great increase in the number of varieties of 
the Peach and Nectarine which are now cultivated 
is due to the introduction of orchard-houses. By 
these means a long succession of fruit is obtained. 
Very early and late sorts thus matured are of im- 
mense advantage. Of course, with the increased 
number of sorts the difficulty of proper selection 
keeps pace. It is, therefore, necessary to add a 
list of choice kinds. The Peach-fancier, however, 
can now raise varieties from seed for himself, and 
by judicious fertilising obtain new sorts, the fruit- 
ing of which will at least be a source of infinite 
pleasure. Having mj^self experienced this satis- 
faction, and successfully fruited some Georgian 
varieties (such as Exquisite, Golden Purple, Ca- 
nary, Thomas's Late, Baldwin's Late, and Stump- 
the- World), besides holding a number of fine 
seedlings as yet unfruited here, it occurred to me 
to obtain further information on this interesting 
point; and the answer of Mr. Rivers is as fol- 
lows : — 

" The seedlings of 1865 were about two hun- 
dred in number. Their qualities and deviations 
from the parent stock have been accurately noted 



VARIATIONS OF PEACHES AND NECTARINES. 159 

down. They are numbered for reference, and 
dates of ripening added, 

" No. 1. August 10th. An orange Nectarine 
from Fairchild's Early. Liable to crack. 

" No. 2. August 10th. A seedling from Early 
York, but having leaves with glands, and thus not 
liable to mildew. Flowers large, like the parent, 
and the only one out of twenty which deviated 
from the parent stock. 

" No. 3. Oct. 1st. A seedling from a yellow 
clingstone. Small but rich, with large flowers. 

" No. 4. Sept. 20th. A very large clingstone 
from Early York, in the third generation. This is 
a remarkable variation, with the large flowers of 
the race. 

" No. 5. Sept. 4th. A Peach raised from the 
Balgowan Nectarine. Small, rich, with small 
flowers. 

" No. 6. August 16th« A large Peach from 
Peche Deniaux. Of a delicate cream colour, 
slightly tinted with red under the skin ; firm flesh, 
and delicious aroma. The parent I found in a 
small nursery in Brittany as a robust standard. 
This remarkable Peach has been since named Dr. 
Hogg, and is first-rate. 

" No. 7. August 18th. A large and deep crim- 
son seedling from Belle Bausse, differing from it 
in its flowers. Called the Crimson Mignonne. 



160 



THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 



"No. 8. August 20th. A very large pale Peach 
raised from a white Nectarine, itself from the New 
White Nectarine, so that this Peach is the third 
generation from a Nectarine. Flowers small. 

" No. 9. August 10th. A large early seedling 
from Early Albert, which was raised from an early 
Belgian Peach, called Montague Precoce. A 
very valuable early Peach, called by the Fruit 
Committee the Dagmar Peach. Flowers small. 

" No. 10. Sept. 18th. A Peach raised from that 
large sort, Pavie de Pompone, and small, with its 
rind of a pale straw-colour, without the least red 
tinge. I mention this to show the great diversity 
of character often originating from the same stock, 
as will be seen presently. Exquisitely sweet. 
Flowers small. 

"No. 11. A large pale yellow seedling from 
Royal George. Flesh remarkably juicy, like its 
parent, and totally unlike the yellow American 
and south of Europe Peaches. It has none of 
the Apricot flavour. Called the Golden Royal 
George. Flowers small. 

" No. 12. August 12th. A medium-sized melt- 
ing Peach, seedling from Hunt's Tawny Nec- 
tarine. Named by the Committee the Early 
Alfred Peach. 

" No. 13. Sept. 30th. A very large cream- 
coloured clingstone from American Heath-cling. 



VARIATIONS OF PEACHES AND NECTARINES. 161 

I mention this clingstone, passing over many 
others, as being, unlike its parent stock, very juicy. 
Flowers small. 

"No. 14. August 10th. The Early Silver 
Peach, the first generation from the New White 
Nectarine. One of the most beautiful Peaches. 
Skin pale silver, pink-tinted. It is the parent of 
many seedlings, all of high character. 

"No. 15. Sept. 8th. A large late Nectarine 
from the Elruge, with the Stanwick flavour. It is 
most curious to note the influence of the Stanwick 
on the flavour of seedlings, as if the pollen of this 
peculiar sort had effected a radical change in their 
character, reminding one of the introduction of 
the Black Cap Raspberry from America, which 
has stained all our autumnal Raspberries. Flowers 
small. 

" No. 16. August 28th. A large orange Nec- 
tarine originating from Hardwicke Seedling, which 
is of a totally different character, and itself also 
differing from its parent, the Elruge. Flow'ers 
large. 

" No, 17. August 26th. A large green Nec- 
tarine, a freestone, raised from the Roman, which 
is a clingstone. The flavour is much influenced 
by the Stanwick cross. 

" No. 18. A large seedling Peach from the 
Noblesse. Much like its parent in texture, but, 

L 



162 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

unlike it, has glands, and thus not liable to mildew, 
which all the glandless Peaches are. To keep it 
in its class it is called the Alexandra Noblesse. 
Flowers large. 

" No. 19. July 11th. A remarkably early seed- 
ling Peach, pale, red-tinted, medium size, melting 
and juicy. Raised from a Nectarine, a seedling 
from New White (the Early Silver Nectarine). 
This Peach is, therefore, the third generation from 
the New White Nectarine. This is a remarkable 
deviation in every way. 

" No. 20. July 14th. A medium-sized Peach, 
marbled with bright red, juicy, and rich. Raised 
from Early Albert, and likely to be of great value 
as an early sort. 

" No. 21. July 14th. A large pale Peach like 
the Noblesse, melting and racy. Raised from 
Early Silver, and the third generation from New 
White Nectarine. Decidedly the finest large 
early Peach known, and, with the two preceding, 
being ripe in July (three weeks before the Early 
York), likely to be of great value ; and probably in 
Guernsey with skill might be ready by the end of 
June, when only forced Peaches are to be met 
with. Called the Early Rivers Peach. Flowers 
large. 

" No. 22, Sept. 20th. A Peach measuring 12 
inches round, pale straw, rosy cheek, firm yet 



VARIATIONS OF PEACHES AND NECTARINES. J 63 



juicy flesh, and rich aroma. Raised from Princess 
of Wales, and so third generation from Pavie de 
Pompone. One fruit was ripe, and submitted to 
the Fruit Committee at South Kensington, and it 
received a first-class certificate. Named Lord 
Palmerston. Flowers large. 

" No. 23. Sept. 30th. A large melting Peach. 
Skin beautifully marbled ; flesh pale yellow, juicy, 
and excellent. Raised from Pine Apple Nectarine, 
and the third generation from the Pitmaston 
Orange. A remarkable variation. Its parent and 
grand-parent produce the most beautiful large 
bright flowers of all. This has given us small 
flowers. Named Lady Palmerston. 

" No. 24. Sept 6th. A medium-sized Peach, 
with a bright red cheek. Raised from Hardwicke 
Seedling Nectarine. The parent has large flowers, 
but this one has them small. 

" No. 25. Sept. 6th. A Nectarine of the largest 
size, juicy and rich. Raised from Prince of Wales 
Nectarine, itself a seedling from a Peach, Earlier 
and much larger. Flowers small. 

"These extracts from my Fruit Record show 
the extraordinary changes wrought by cross-breed- 
ing, either by accidental fertilisation by insects, or, 
as it seems to me, by 6 breeding in-and-in' — i. e., 
by selecting varieties generation after generation, 
and thus conveying the peculiar qualities apper- 
l 2 



164 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER, 

taining to a race. Seedling No. 22 is an illustra- 
tion of this. In making my collection of every 
kind of Peach known in Europe and America, I 
some years since received that largest of all Peaches, 
Pavie de Pompone. Owing to its great size and 
to its beautiful rose-like flowers I always felt much 
interest in it, but its fruit was seldom fit to eat. 
It was not till 1857 that I thought of raising seed- 
lings from it, for I had slight hopes of raising a 
melting Peach from a clingstone. I planted, how- 
ever, some stones ; one tree grew, and produced 
melting Peaches, rather late, but of good quality. 
It was named the Princess of Wales. This variety 
has much of the robust habit of its parent, and 
gives the same grand flowers. The seedling raised 
from this departed widely from the parent stock, 
producing small flowers and melting fruit, but not 
large. In 1862 stones of the Princess of Wales 
Peach were planted, one of which produced fruit 
in 1865. This seedling gives fruit firm like its 
ancestor, Pavie de Pompone, though a melting 
Peach. This is a case of adherence to race. 

" In 1815 the late Mr. Williams, of Pitmaston, 
planted stones of the Elruge, which has a white 
flesh and small flowers, and one of these produced 
a tree which gave large beautiful flowers, and was 
called the Pitmaston Orange Nectarine. It was the 
first full-sized orange Nectarine known in England. 



VARIATIONS OF PEACHES AND NECTARINES. 165 

I planted stones of this sort in 1856, which, in due 
time, bore fruit nearly all identical with the parent. 
One, however, large, and ten days later, I named 
the Pine Apple Nectarine, owing to its flesh being 
transparent like the Pine. In 1862 I planted 
stones of this sort, but the young trees gave slight 
hopes of deviation. In 1865 several bore fruit, all 
like their grand-parent the Pitmaston Orange 
Nectarine, and were laid aside, till one day my 
attention was drawn to two very beautiful Peaches 
hanging on one of the trees. Here we have the 
fourth generation of the Elruge Nectarine, and it 
proves to be a large and late Peach. 

" I may add that till I had bought my experience 
of the great variation in seedlings I could hardly be- 
lieve in the origin of the Pitmaston Orange Nec- 
tarine, I was, perhaps, more inclined to think so 
from having received from the south of France, 
many years ago, a full-sized orange Nectarine 
under the name of Brugnon Musque. This gave 
large beautiful flowers, but was a clingstone. 

" I may here mention that, as yet, Apricots have 
not given the remarkable variation shown by 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Thos. Rivers." 

It will be seen from the foregoing how short a 
time it requires to test any new variety. Parents 
having very distinctive qualities should be selected 
to experimentalise with, and a short experience 



166 THE MODERN PEACH PRUNER. 

will be the best of all teachers. Other numbers 
might be added on the best shapes for orchard- 
houses, and their general management, as also on 
the temperatures adapted to them, &c, but such 
topics, besides being beyond the limits fixed for the 
work, are also extraneous to the leading purpose, 
which was — the training and pruning of the Peach 
according to the latest experience. 



167 



APPENDIX. 



No. 1. — Diseases and Insects. 

Peach trees are liable to certain diseases, one of 
the most dangerous of which is canker. Its cause 
is uncertain. Some ascribe it to abrupt atmo- 
spheric changes ; others to stagnant water at the 
roots ; others, again, think unripe wood and 
exaggerated pruning together are the chief causes 
of this disease. Canker is a kind of ulcer, and 
the sap vessels thereby pour out their contents -and 
weaken the part affected. It is recommended to . 
clear out the diseased portion, and apply a weak 
decoction of oxalic acid. 

One kind of canker attacks the young shoots, 
and destroys their circulation. 

Blister is a well-known disease of the Peach. 
It is rare in the orchard-house ; but in the case of 



168 



APPENDIX. 



trees in the open air, the soil has, by the spring, 
parted with the heat stored therein, and become 
colder than the sunny atmosphere enveloping the 
leaves. Evaporation takes place in the young and 
tender tissue, without a correspondent supply from 
the roots ; then the young leaves collapse and curl 
up, and the tender shoots, suddenly arrested in 
their progress, swell and grow unshapely. In cold 
and undrained soils this causes much injury to the 
tree, and much requires to be cut away. 

Mildew, a minute fungus or vegetable parasite, 
often produces considerable injury to the young 
shoots by its roots piercing the tender epidermis, 
and so blocking up the stomata or openings which 
communicate with the interior of the branch. 
Peculiar states of the atmosphere favour the 
development of these fungi, and certain varieties 
are well known to be more liable to their attacks 
than others. The parts affected should be wiped, 
and then dusted with flowers of sulphur, which 
absorb the evil. A little oil paint is also good. 
Insects are, however, a more severe trial to the 
welfare of the trees. 

The Scale is one of these; it preys on the juices 
of the stems and branches. The body of the female 
is wingless, and covers a multitude of eggs under 
its shield-like form. The male insect is a tiny 
creature, much smaller than the female, and has a 



APPENDIX. 



169 



pair of beautiful wings. It is very active, unlike 
the female, which clings to the victimised branch, 
drawing out its juices, by means of a powerful 
sucker. The males are easily destroyed by fumi- 
gation, but the females require to be carefully 
scraped off the branch. The tree is then anointed 
with sulphur and soap (two parts of the first to one 
of the latter), made into a thick paste, with a little 
black pepper added. 

The Aphis tribe multiply so fast as to require 
incessant attention. The brown aphis preys on 
the tender shoots and buds, and is succeeded by 
the green aphis, as soon as the leaves unfold. 
Tobacco water, applied with a soft brush,- or 
syringing with two ounces of tobacco to a quart 
of water, boiled and left to cool ; or a mild decoc- 
tion of quassia ; or Gishurst compound, very weak. 
If the house can be shut up closely, nothing is 
more successful than fumigating with tobacco. 

For out-door trees, equal parts of shag tobacco 
and soda dissolved in boiling water, and used cold. 
Standing obliquely to the tree is essential. A good 
washing with the garden engine shakes off many 
insects. 

But the grand enemy of the Peach fancier is 
the red spider. A high and dry temperature, and 
a crowded house, soon produces them, besides the 
eggs left from last season, which seem to appear 



170 



APPENDIX i 



first. The red spider is a inite, but has a spider- 
like manner of forming a web. 

Almost all remedies have sulphur for a basis, 
but many doubt its value now. 

For winter-dressing of trees, 8 oz. of Gishurst 
compound is used by many to the gallon of water. 
For syringing, from 1 to 2 oz. in a gallon of water. 
If made some time before, the smell subsides. 
Painting the walls is practised by some, but not 
generally liked on account of the staining of the 
walls. If done, 4 parts of sulphur to 1 of soft 
soap and 1 of lime is a fair mixture ; others add 
soot to increase its power, and this slightly darkens 
the walls. In short, sulphur, incorporated with 
soft soap and lime, is what is most used, in various 
proportions. Syringing the under portion of the 
leaves with 2 oz. of soft soap in a gallon of water, 
or a mixture of size and gum, so as to adhere to 
the leaf, and glue in the insects and their webs, 
seem reasonable enough. Violent applications of 
clear water alone shake off numerous enemies. 
Many of the remedies stain the fruit and the wood 
work of the houses, which is thus discoloured for 
months. 

Destroy wasps by May ; and trap woodlice in 
hollowed turnips and such like. 

These are the chief enemies of the Peach 
fancier. 



APPENDIX. 



171 



No. 2. — A list of Choice Peaches and Nec- 
tarines RECOMMENDED FOR THE 

Northern Districts. Placed in 
order of Ripening. 

OPEN WALL. 

Hardy — Free-growing Peaches. 
Early York. 
Early Albert. 
Early Savoy. 
Violette Hative. 
Noblesse. 
Royal George. 
Barrington. 

Hardy — Free-growing Nectarines. 
Violette Hative. 
Downton. 
Rivers's Orange. 
Balgowan. 
Pine Apple. 



appendix. 

Midland Districts. 

Hardy — Free-growing Peaches. 
Early Victoria. 
Belle de Doue. 
Early Grosse Mignonne. 
Royal George. 
Belle de la Croix. 
Bellegarde. 
Gregory's Late. 
Walburton Admirable. 

Hardy — Free-growing Nectarines. 
Hunt's Tawny. 
Violette Hative. 
Elruge. 
Hardwicke. 
Rivers* s Orange. 
Pine Apple. 
Victoria. 

Other sorts for favoured localities. 

Peaches — Prince of Wales. 

Princess of Wales. 
Montagne Tardive. 
Desse Tardive. 
Nectarines — Victoria. 

Prince of Wales. 



APPENDIX. 



Southern District. 
Hardy — Free-growing Peaches. 
Early York. 
Abec. 

Early Grosse Mignonne. 
Violette Hative. 
Grosse Mignonne 
Royal George. 
Noblesse. 

Princess of Wales. 
Late Admirable. 
Hardy — Free-growing Nectarines. 
Balgowan. 
Downton. 
Violette Hative. 
Elruge. 
Oldenburg. 
Pine Apple. 
Victoria. 
Prince of Wales. 
Other sorts where more are desired. 

Peaches — Golden Rathripe. 

Stump-the-World. 
Cornice de Bourbourg. 
Grosse Violette. 
Nectarines — White. 

Imperatrice. 



174 



APPENDIX. 



ORCHARD HOUSES. 
Northern District. 
Lean-to's or Span-roofed, with Single or Double 
row of Hot Pipes. 
Hardy — Free-growing Peaches. 
Early Victoria. 
Belle de Doue. 
Early Grosse Mignonne. 
Royal George. 
Belle de la Croix. 
Bellegarde. 
Gregory's Late. 
Barrington. 
Hardy — Free-growing Nectarines. 
Hunt's Tawny. 
Violette Hative. 
Elruge. 
Hardwicke. 
Rivers's Orange. 
Pine Apple. 
Victoria. 
Other sorts recommended. 
Peaches — Prince of Wales. 

Princess of Wales. 
Montagne Tardive. 
Desse Tardive. 
Nectarines — Victoria. 

Prince of Wales. 



APPENDIX. 



175 



Northern District. 
With little or no artificial heat. 
Hardy — Free-growing Peaches. 
Early York. 
Abec. 

Early Grosse Mignonne. 
Violette Hative. 
Grosse Mignonne. 
Royal George. 
Noblesse. 

Princess of Wales. 
Late Admirable. 
Hardy— Free-growing Nectarines. 
Balgowan. 
Downton. 
Violette Hative. 
Elruge. 
Oldenburg. 
Pine Apple. 
Victoria. 
Prince of Wales. 
Other good sorts, but more difficult to ripen well. 
Peaches — Golden Rathripe. 

Stump-the-World. 
Cornice de Bourbourg. 
Grosse Violette. 
Nectarines — White. 

Imperatrice. 



APPENDIX. 



Midland Districts. 

Free-growing Peaches. 

Early Victoria. 

Belle de Doue. 

Early Grosse Mignonne. 

Royal George. 

Belle de la Croix. 

Bellegarde. 

Malta. 

Late Admirable. 

Free-growing Nectarines. 
Hunt's Tawny. 
Violette Hative. 
Elruge. 
Hardwicke. 
Murrey. 

Rivers' s Orange. 
Pine Apple. 

Other good sorts. 
Peaches — Prince of Wales. 

Princess of Wales. 
Montagne Tardive. 
Desse Tardive. 

Nectarines — Victoria. 

Prince of Wales. 



APPENDIX. 



Southern District. 

Free-growing Peaches. 
Early York. 
Abec. 

Early Grosse Mignonne. 
Violette Hative. 
Grosse Mignonne. 
Noblesse. 

Princess of Wales. 
Late Admirable. 

Free-growing Nectarines. 
Balgowan. 
Downton. 
Violette Hative. 
Elruge. 
Oldenburg. 
Pine Apple. 
Victoria. 
Prince of Wales. 
Good sorts. 

-Golden Rathripe. 
Stunip-the- World. 
Thomas' Late. 
-White. 
Chauviere. 

M 



Peaches 



Nectarines 



178 



APPENDIX. 



In Orchard Houses for Channel Islands. 
The newest sorts. 
Early Silver Peach. 
Comet. 
Canary. 
Exquisite. 
Susquehanna. 
Hale's Early. 
Van Zandt's Superb. 
Washington Rath ripe. 
Honey Peach. 
Early Rivers. 
Dr. Hogg. 
Early Alfred. 
Tecuniseh. 

Note. — In deciding on the sorts finally selected 
for the house or open wall, great regard must be 
had for all such local conditions as tend to modify 
the above directions. These are — height above 
sea-level, vicinity or remoteness therefrom, neigh- 
bourhood of sheltering hills or belts of trees, easy 
or difficult drainage, quality of soil, size and posi- 
tion of house or garden, &c. In all such cases 
local advice should be superadded; but the list 
given is good, as far as it goes, and has been 
revised by very good authority 



the end. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



